The Syrian Refugee Crisis

Syrian refugees crossing into Iraqi Kurdistan
(picture courtesy of the BBC and UNHCR)

As I'm sure most of you know, the death toll in the Syrian conflict passed the 100,000 mark last month.  Just this week, hundreds were killed outside of Damascus, including many children, in an attack using chemical weapons.  This is a particularly horrific reminder for the Kurdish people in Iraq of the chemical weapon attacks against them by Saddam Hussein 25 years ago that also killed hundreds of innocent men, women and children. 

Halabja March 1988

Also this week, tens of thousands of refugees poured into Kurdistan -- almost 10,000 in one day, bringing the total number to more than 160,000 -- flooding already over-burdened refugee camps.  But Kurdistan has not closed its doors to the refugees, and many of those arriving in Northern Iraq are Kurds.  In addition, as widely reported by the BBC and others, president of Iraqi Kurdistan, Massuod Barzani, recently threatened to intervene  to defend the Kurdish population caught up in Syria's unrest.  He said if Kurds were "under threat of death and terrorism" then Iraqi Kurdistan would be "prepared to defend them".

Syrian refugees at the Iraqi border
(picture courtesy of the BBC and UNHCR)

Refugees are fleeing the horror of the war in Syria.  Many -- including children -- have witnessed traumatic events and have been subject to torture and other forms of violence.  They arrive here hungry, tired and traumatized.  UNHCR and various organizations around the world are trying to respond to this crisis but are fighting an uphill battle.  And the tragedy is that having escaped the horrors of the Syrian conflict, many refugees -- particularly women and children -- may become victims of human trafficking, including sex trafficking.  In need of  food and shelter, and unable to find jobs, displaced persons are often lured into sexual trafficking with promises of legitimate employment.   In addition to the refugee crisis in the North, sectarian violence continues to escalate in Southern Iraq.  With daily car bombings and other terrorist activity, the violence in Iraq is at its highest level since 2006. 

 

All in all, the needs here grow each day and of course, there are never enough resources to meet them.  Heartland Alliance International is developing programs to respond to these challenges, including, for example, programs to  serve survivors of trafficking -- particularly women and young people who are Syrian refugees -- through legal, social and mental health services.  This is in addition to maintaining our current projects.  I ask that you consider a donation to help us.  I have set up a website where you can donate directly.  Please feel free to pass it along to your friends and colleagues and please know that any support is greatly appreciated.

 

Two Years in Iraq

Kurdistan is having a lovely spring -- not too warm (last time this year it had already gotten very hot) -- and it's been a busy one for me.  I went to my first concert earlier this month.  It was a famous singer, Neriman Baban, and it was called the "Home Concert" because he is from Sulaimaniya.   He was great and he had wonderful musical accompaniment:  a small symphony, a rock and roll band (drums, guitar and keyboard), some traditional Kurdish instruments and a chorus.  I thoroughly enjoyed it. 

 

Neriman Concert



Afterward,my colleagues and I went out for dinner to a new place in town:  Burger Fuel.  It is apparently a New Zealand chain and advertises that it serves New Zealand beef.  We had cheeseburgers (my first since coming here), fries and a milkshake -- a perfect way to end the evening.

 

Last blog entry, I wrote about Heartland Alliance's 125th anniversary.  I'm celebrating my two year anniversary in Iraq this month (May 26).  It's hard to believe I've been here that long, and that short.  On  the one hand, I still feel like a new comer in so many ways -- other than a few words, I still don't speak the language and I  still have so much to learn.  On the other hand, I consider Sulaimaniya my home.  When I reflect on the time here, I realize what an amazing experience I've been given by being able to work for an organization like Heartland, the many things I've learned and the opportunity to work and be with such wonderful people.

 

Being interviewed

A couple of weeks ago I did an interview for Kurdsat TV.  I was asked about Heartland's work here in Iraq and Kurdistan and had a chance to talk about our programs:  treating survivors of torture and other trauma, training Community Mental Health Workers, providing legal services to vulnerable populations, including victims of trafficking and gender based violence, and the importance of our youth media program in Kirkuk and Baghdad, two cities that suffer the horrible consequences of continuing sectarian and ethnic violence. 

 

 

I was also asked why I would leave London and my former career to come work for an NGO in Iraq.  Many people might think it was so I could help change things--help improve people's lives by working for human rights-- and I suppose that there is truth in that.  But what I have discovered is that the experience has profoundly changed me: seeing first hand what it means to grow up and live throughout years and years of conflict, being challenged to approach problems in new ways, working with wonderful partners and staff, and living in a culture with a long rich history, but one which includes barbarian traditions, such as female genital mutilation and a belief that "honor killing" is justified if a woman has "shamed" the family.

 

 

And I was asked what I would remember most when I left Iraq.  That question was easy.  Without a doubt, I will remember the warmth and generosity of the people here with whom I've been privileged to live and work.  If you'd like to hear the interview, it's available on YouTube.

 

Generous Kurdish hospitality

I have been incredibly privileged over the last year as Country Director to have a wonderful mentor and teacher -- our MENA Regional Director, Ramsey Ben-Achour.  Ramsey was previously Heartland's Country Director in Haiti and he made my transition into the job of leading the Iraq office easy.  I've learned a remarkable amount from him and so enjoyed working with him.  Like my colleagues in Sulaimaniya, Ramsey has enriched my experience here incredibly; in fact, there was a time when I couldn't imagine being able to do my job without him to turn to. 

Ramsey and me at his going away party

Regrettably, I'm going to have to now learn how to get along without him as he will be leaving Heartland in August after he gets married.   Thank you, Ramsey, for all you've given Heartland and all you've given me, and may you and Eva have a wonderful life together. 

 

Spring Sunset

 

 

Happy Birthday Heartland Alliance!

Storm coming

It's hard to believe that my last post was more than four months ago.  Time seems to pass so quickly yet at the same time, November seems like years away because so much has happened since then.  Winter has turned into spring, and yet like other parts of the world, one day it can be sunny and warm, another day it is cold and rainy.  But flowers are blooming and the hills are green, rather than the brown they wear for most of the year.

Spring blossoming trees

This change in seasons is marked by Nowruz in Kurdistan -- Persian New Year and the first day of spring.  This holiday is celebrated for several days with picnics and other events.  Just as on New Year's Eve (December 31), the main street in Sulaimaniya closed down and there was a huge street fair.  So, there are two "new year's" celebrations -- the one on January 1 and the one in March. 

Lights of Nowruz

For both celebrations, flags and lights are hung everywhere, and pictures of Kurdish heroes decorate the thoroughfares.  They are wonderful times to see family and friends, share sweets, and wear traditional Kurdish dress (though this is primarily at Nowruz given that it's cold here in January!

One of the main streets in Sulaimaniya decked out for Nowruz
 

There are two other important dates in March to commemorate.  First, International Women's Day is observed on March 8.  Here is the message I sent to our staff to mark the occasion:

One hundred eleven years have passed since the first International Women’s Day was marked by demonstrations and celebrations.  On this day, it is fair and important to ask how much progress has been made for women and girls around the world; it is more urgent and timely to ask how much further we can and must go.  Equal rights and opportunities in the home, school and workplace are fundamental, but more important is recognizing that women and men have equal value as human beings.  This is and must continue to be our goal. Thank you for your work in support of not only women but all those whose rights we are committed to protecting and upholding.   

Our office commemorating International Women's Day

The other important date in in March is March 13—when Heartland Alliance celebrated its 125th Anniversary.  As our President, Sid Mohn said:

[S]ince 1888, we’ve been providing the very services people need to end poverty and build a safe and stable life for themselves and their families. Heartland Alliance traces its roots to legendary social reformer, pioneer human rights worker, and Nobel peace prize winner—Jane Addams. Her legacy endures and I see her spirit and commitment to those who need help in every one of our offices in every part of the world.  Today, as we celebrate this milestone, I ask you to join me. Join me in believing that we CAN live in a world where children live safe from violence and terror. That every working person CAN earn enough to support their family. That elderly people CAN live with dignity. And that the disabled, sick and mentally ill CAN get the help they need. At Heartland Alliance, we ALL believe that ordinary people can create an extraordinary world. Thank you again for being a part of this important work."

Spring sky

 One way of joining us in our work is to become a Global Fellow, which is how I came to Heartland Alliance International Iraq.  Our Global Fellow Program is a great way for people to work in one of our international country offices, for six months to a year (though like me, this may often turn into another position), and see how this suits them (work in conflict or post-conflict areas is not everyone's cup of tea).  A Global Fellow can work on a specific project (for example, as a lawyer in one of our legal services programs) or in a specific area (such as a finance Global Fellow).  It's a great opportunity to experience life in a country like Iraq (or Colombia or one of the many countries in Africa and other parts of the globe where Heartland has offices).  To find out more about the Program, you can go to our website.  It will also tell you how to apply.  Right now, for example, we are interested in applications for Global Fellowships for our finance department and also for one of our legal programs (since Iraq is a civil law country, someone with civil law experience/knowledge is preferred).  The organization is also interested in Global Fellows who can help with writing grant proposals.

Sheep crossing the road to get to greener pastures

Most often, though not always, our Global Fellows are at what I call either end of the age spectrum:  they are either young men and women who have just graduated from college or another degree program and who are anxious to get their feet wet in the international NGO world.  Or like me, they are starting a new career in the later part of their life.  But no one should consider becoming a Global Fellow unless they want new experiences that don't include the creature comforts that they may otherwise be used to and unless they believe that we, in collaboration with our local partners, can help make a better world.


Pak

Oh, and one other change of the season.  We have a new member of our household, Pak.  He has settled in nicely and we've learned that he is a very smart dog.  Among other things, he can literally climb the fence around our yard like one would climb a ladder so we have to keep him on a long chain.  Otherwise, he would terrorize the neighbourhood, not because he's mean but because most Iraqis do NOT like dogs and keeping them as pets is very unusual.  Happy Spring everyone!

 

One of our global fellows (left) and
our program coordinator

 

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

Thanksgiving in Sulaimaniya

Though Thanksgiving is obviously not a holiday here in Iraq, my two new housemates and I left the office a little early so that we could cook a special Thanksgiving dinner.  We didn't have turkey but we did have two nicely stuffed chickens, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans with almonds and apple crisp ala mode.  It was really delicious.  Actually, we could have bought a turkey that we saw in the market bazaar last weekend but none of us was up for killing and de-feathering a live bird.  I guess we are not true pilgrims!

Turkeys awaiting their fate in the bazaar

Earlier on Thanksgiving Day I was one of three judges at a debate contest held between a team from the American University of Iraq in Sulaimaniya and the University of Kurdistan-Hawler (the Kurdish name for Erbil).  The topic was "Oil: a Curse or a Blessing?"  My co-judges were from the Ministry of Higher Education and the newspaper Awene.  It was so interesting hearing the viewpoints of those who live in a country with lots of oil and where, in fact, it can be both a curse and a blessing at the same time.  For example, in Kurdistan (as well as other oil-producing nations), the income from oil, if managed correctly, can be used to build hospitals, schools and much-needed infrastructure.  It can be used to fund legal aid and social services programs.  However, that's a big "if."  The money from oil, if mismanaged, can, among other things, also foster corruption and stifle entrepreneurship and industry.

Debate topic:  "Oil -- a Curse or a Blessing?"

Speaking of hospitals, one of the projects I would like to do in Iraq if we can get the funding is a program for burn victims.  The rate of suicide and attempted suicide by self-immolation is alarmingly high and growing (not to mention "forced suicides" -- a form of honor killing).  Women are most often the subjects and in many cases, they are victims of gender-based violence or suffer depression for other reasons.  I visited the burn unit of the hospital in Suly and saw a number of women who had been badly burned, not necessarily by accident.  One of the mental health workers from the TRTC (Trauma Rehabilitation and Training Center) who works at the burn unit on a volunteer basis gave two of my colleagues and me a tour and talked about the need for a psychiatrist on staff, medication to treat depression, and additional staff to provide mental health services.  A legal component could be included in the program to provide legal services for women who have attempted suicide because, for example, they are divorced and have no rights to visit their children (the situation of one woman we met in the burn unit).  We are going to write the proposal and hope that the funding will come.

 

 

One of the victims in the intensive care wing of the burn unit was there because he had been injured in an explosion from a car bomb in Kirkuk.  Kirkuk is a disputed part of Iraq, with some claiming it is part of Kurdistan while others claim that it is not.  Because of this conflict, Kirkuk has seen a number of terrorist attacks.  Kirkuk is also an area rich in oil, and -- at least for now -- that oil is a curse and a major reason why people are fighting over who controls that city and region.

Dolma and Pringles?

As is often the case with the Thanksgiving Day holiday, my housemates and I also feasted the day after (known in the United States as "black Friday).   Friends took us on a picnic in a beautiful area outside of Halabja.  The land belongs to one of our friend's grandfather who not only hosted us, but provided us with pomegranates from his trees (this is the season for that wonderful fruit and the best variety comes form Halabja).

Picking pomegranates

After lunch we visited the memorial to the victims of the poisonous gas attack on the city of Halabja which was part of Saddam Hussein's genocide campaign against the Kurdish people.  We also visited the cemetery where many of the 6000 victims are buried in mass graves.  These are powerful reminders of the hideous acts human beings can commit against one another.

The memorial in Halabja

Halabja cemetery with markers for each family killed. 

Both Thanksgiving Day and the day after were excellent opportunities for me to reflect once again about all I have to be thankful for -- the privilege of working in this country with its wonderful people, the hope that no one will ever have to experience another Halabja, the ability to experience fellowship with good friends, and immense gratitude for the abundance of other gifts I have been given.  

Some of the beautiful scenery on the drive
through the country to and from Halabja. 

 

 

Election Report from Iraq

 

Living in Iraq gives me a new appreciation for the rights we have as Americans to participate in the democratic process of Tuesday's election.  I have had so many Kurds congratulate me on the re-election of President Obama and exhibit sincere joy. One staff member, who speaks very little English, was so excited to have watched the election results and the president's victory speech -- she rushed into my office with a huge smile, as happy as the Americans I watched in Chicago and Times Square on CNN celebrating after the election results came in. 

One former Heartland staff member sent the following (unedited) message to a mutual friend who passed it on to me:   "I want to say re–elected Obama congratulation, congratulation to all American people, really American people did a right decision, in here in sulaimania me and [my colleague] were Voted to Obama spiritually."

Another (Kurdish) staff member told me he couldn't sleep the night before worrying and he particularly noted in Obama's victory speech his reference to "people in other parts of the world risking their lives to have a chance to argue, cast their votes, like we did today."  He said "that sums up what we are dealing with in Kurdistan and Iraq.  I think Iraq and the world will be a better place with Obama in the White House."

This last message is particularly apropos in light of the following warning the US State Department sent the morning of the election:

The Department of State warns all U.S. citizens of an increased threat of terrorist activity against U.S. interests in northern Iraq in the run up to and through the U.S. elections on November 6, 2012.  The Department of State urges all U.S. citizens to defer non-essential travel to urban areas in Northern Iraq, including Erbil, Suliemaniyah, Dohuk and Kirkuk.  The Department of State further advises U.S. citizens to avoid large gatherings or public events as those are often targets of terrorism.  Additionally the U.S. Embassy has directed Chief of Mission personnel to defer all non-essential travel to Northern Iraq until further notice.

 

In my 18 months in Iraq, this is the first warning I have seen that actually mentions Sulaimaniya.  Luckily the day passed here without incident, though a car bomb killed more than two dozen people at an Army base near Baghdad.

May our re-elected president and all the leaders of the world join together to bring greater global peace and security.

 

* * *

 

In Chicago where I used to live there's a joke that the city has two seasons:  winter and construction season, and by construction, what is meant is road construction and refurbishing -- including filling in the potholes from the prior winter.  I feel like we're living in a bit of that here.  A couple of weeks ago I went to lunch with friends on a Saturday and when I came back, the road and what amounts to a sidewalk in front of the office and my house had been totally torn up (as shown in the above picture).  This week steps were taken to finish it:

And I have to confess that once the cement dried, like a little kid I had to write my name in it -- but no hand print.

It's also the season for pomegranates -- and Iraq has the best in the world.  So now and for the next few weeks I'll be feasting on this wonderful fruit.

 

Ending Domestic Violence

A rare site: a river near Duhok 

Ramadan and the Eid holiday are over and Kurdistan is resuming a more regular schedule.  For me this included a trip to Erbil and Duhok where I was last week.*  In Erbil I was a panelist for the Kurdistan Careers Conference (which was repeated in Sulaimaniya on Friday and Saturday), attended mainly by recent college graduates.  The panel was made up of expats talking about the organizations they worked for, their experiences, opportunities for employment, why they came to Kurdistan and how they see Kurdistan's future.

I was the only representative from an NGO at the conference.  My co-panelists predicted a very bright future for the region with, among other things, oil and gas production (Exxon-Mobil and Chevron both have agreements to drill here).  I suggested that although Kurdistan had many positive things going for it, there were some things which serve as impediments to full development and that their generation would need to change them.  For example, the KRG (and many other governments) have a political system in which so much of the government's funds go to  "public sector employment" rather than building sorely needed schools, establishing hospitals, supporting legal assistance programs, etc.  Another is the influence of tribal and cultural traditions that on the one hand give the Kurdish people their identity and rich heritage, but on the other too often perpetuate human rights violations.  Finally, I opined that any country or region which discounts 50% or more of its human resources -- its women -- will never grow into the kind of nation it otherwise could be. 


American University of Iraq in Sulaimaniya, site of the
Kurdistan Careers Conference

One of the significant human rights  issues in Iraq and a growing problem, even in areas like Sulaimaniya, is the problem of suicide and forced suicide, which is just another word for honor killing.  And the incidence of "self" immolation is alarmingly high.  Many of the women who burn to death or who are badly burned but survive are taking, or trying to take, their own lives because they feel there is no alternative.  In many cases, for example, they have been forced into unhappy and often abusive marriages.

But Iraq and Kurdistan both have recently enacted anti-domestic violence laws that make illegal not only domestic violence, but also forced marriages, underage marriages, genital mutilations and other forms of abuse.  As part of the law, the Directorate for Follow-up of Violence Against Women was created to help those protected by the law.  This Directorate refers many women to Heartland Alliance's Legal Help Desks (part of the UNDP Access to Justice Project).

The Heartland Alliance Access to Justice Project Manager,
Duhok Administrator and me with the Director in Samel and
her assistant

When we were in Duhok we visited the Directorate in the city of Duhok and also in the District of Semel.  In order for the Anti-Domestic Violence Law to be accomplish its purposes, it must be implemented effectively and enforced.  I'd love to be able to get the funds for a program to help do this.  For example, the law includes penalties, both monetary and penal, for certain violations; if damages were awarded under the enumerated circumstances, it might be a way to help women who are left with little if any means of supporting themselves (and so they are often forced to stay in abusive relationships). 

We also visited the men's penitentiary just outside of Duhok where prisoners who have already been to trial and are found guilty are held; while there we met with its director in order to coordinate outreach sessions, periodic visits, and referrals and we toured the facility. The differences between this penitentiary and those in the United States are remarkable.  The Duhok facility holds about 1000 prisoners in 100 "suites" of approximately ten men.  The suites include the bedroom, a kitchen, a sitting area and an outdoor space.  In fact, except for the steel doors that are locked each night, it felt more like a dormitory than a prison.

In one of the prison suite sleeping area with the director of the
penitentiary

Last week I also had the opportunity to attend the Kurdish wedding of one of our staff members.  When I say wedding, it's not what we mean in the United States and other Western countries.  In fact, what we would call the engagement is actually like a combination of the engagement and marriage;  the couple have a ceremony conducted by the religious leader and then they have several months during which they get to know one another, acquire the things necessary to set up house, etc.  After that, they have the "wedding" which in fact is when they take pictures (in this case the bride wore a very Western-looking white wedding gown and the groom wore a tuxedo), then join their guests for dancing and dining -- the party (or what we would call the wedding reception).  After that, they start their lives together.  A number of Heartland Alliance staff sat at one table, danced and had a great time celebrating this happy occasion!

On our way to the wedding -- I borrowed traditional
Kurdish dressy clothes   

*NOTE:  THIS BLOG WAS ORIGINALLY POSTED IN SEPTEMBER




 

A New Year

UNDP Access to Justice Project with the support of Norway

I know it has been a very long time since I've posted, but it's been a busy several weeks.  First of all, I'm pleased to report that the UNDP Access to Justice Project for Vulnerable Iraqis Project was extended in May and will continue another eight months, into 2013.  The project is still sponsored by UNDP (United Nations Development Programme) and supported this time by Norway in lieu of the European Union.  So we're very glad to be able to continue this essential program which provides outreach and legal and social services to those in need.  For those of you who saw my last post about our Photo Exhibition , What the Eye Does Not See:  The Faces of Vulnerability in Iraq, all the beautiful photographs can be viewed on:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G8VGIp2LY8&feature=youtube_gdata

Grapes and pears in our garden.

I'm now into my second year living here in Sulaimaniya.  Another summer has arrived and with it the heat.  This week it is 40 degrees Celsius (or as I was taught, centigrade) -- about 105 degrees Fahrenheit.  Not too much different than what friends and family in the United States have been experiencing.  In many ways, it's more tolerable because it is dry heat with very little humidity.  On the other hand, the inevitable power outages mean long periods of time (e.g., four hours) without air conditioning in our house.  During these times, including as I'm writing this, the goal is to move as little as possible, but even then eventually sweat drips down your front, back, legs, arms, etc. As you can see from the pictures above and below, summer also  means wonderful produce.  We have a very large grape arbor in front of the house.  The grapes are pretty sour, but perhaps we can set up a winery and make a little money to help support our programs.

For much of the Arab world, Ramadan started yesterday, but in Iraq it started today (which made me happy that I had one final day of the weekend where I could eat regularly).  Once again I will be fasting while I'm here as I did last year, though I do drink water during the day. 

With the advent of my second year here, I have become Country Director of Heartland Alliance's Iraq office and programs (I tell my friends and former work colleagues that it's sort of like being the CEO of a foreign subsidiary).  As you can imagine, I've felt a little overwhelmed these first few weeks as I've gotten to know the programs, financial systems, etc. but I love it and feel so privileged to be entrusted with this role.  My direct boss, the MENA (Middle East North Africa) Regional Director is terrific -- very supportive and affirmative.  As the International HR person at headquarters in the US pointed out, I've had many roles with Heartland, including Board member, member of the President's Council and Legal Programs Director here in Iraq, and I hope I can continue to be of service in this new position. 

Proud mom with my handsome son and
gorgeous daughter-in-law at law school graduation

One reason why I haven't posted in a while is that I had a long visit to the United States to attend my son's graduation from law school and to celebrate my father's 90th birthday with my mom and the rest of our family (which includes 1 son and 1 daughter-in-law, 2 sisters, 1 brother, 3 nephews, 5 nieces and a niece-in-law, Jim and a boyfriend of one of my nieces -- 19 in all).  It was great  being with my family for this happy occasion and to celebrate my dad's life.  When I was growing up, my father encouraged me to pursue the things I loved and taught me to believe that I could do anything I wanted with hard work and determination.  I never dreamed I would be given the opportunity to have two wonderful careers -- first as a corporate lawyer and now as a human rights worker -- and to be given the privilege of living and working in Iraq with our terrific staff and the wonderful people who live here.   And I'm tremendously grateful for the continuing support of my mom and dad, even though they would rather that I be living closer to them.

With my mom and dad, son and daughter-in-law