tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73169623044469436782024-03-21T06:26:00.176+03:00Saladin's SisterLynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.comBlogger31125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-49603516332411564672014-04-30T18:30:00.000+03:002014-04-30T18:56:07.558+03:00April 30: Today is Election Day<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downtown Suly with poster of Jalal Talabani</td></tr>
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I know that just a few months ago I posted a story about elections, but that was elections for the Kurdish parliament. During the local elections last fall, things got a bit ugly, particularly after it was clear that the PUK party (People's Union of Kurdistan) was going to come in third. Everyone knew that the KDP (Kurdistan Democratic Party) would garner the most votes, but no one really anticipated that Goran (literally meaning "change") would place second. At least one person was killed and many injured by stray bullets (some aimed at people, others shot into the air).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little girl handing out election pamphlets<br />
with her father</td></tr>
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Today is election day in all of Iraq to elect members of the Federal Parliament in Baghdad and council members in Kurdistan. The parties and candidates are given one month to conduct electioneering activities and throughout April, each night has been filled with the sounds of firecrackers and the occasional gunshot, and cars with screaming people waving flags of the various political parties, particularly the PUK. Two days ago, Kurdistan television showed Jalal Talibani, founder of the PUK and President of Iraq, casting his vote in Germany where he has been since his stroke more than a year ago (publicity no doubt intended to increase support for the PUK in today's elections). Talabani is beloved by many Kurds, particularly in Sulaimaniya where he is from, and the television story brought on a night of gunfire (why do people celebrate by shooting rifles and other weapons), again with about a dozen injuries from stray bullets.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Rezan Dler, PUK candidate for Parliament, and Heidi</td></tr>
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A senior lawyer from Heartland Alliance International in Iraq is running for Parliament. I would love her to win because she is a passionate human rights activist, fighting particularly for women, and the Iraqi Parliament needs her. On the other hand, it will be a great loss to our organization. Otherwise, the elections look rather grim. Election rallies and polling places have been the target of terrorist bombings, turnout today has been low so far, and most people believe that the current prime minister, Al Maliki will win a third term and cement even more strongly his power (by law, he is the only one who can introduce legislation -- parliamentarians cannot!). If you want to read a pretty discouraging piece about where Iraq is today, see David Filkens' <a href="http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2014/04/28/140428fa_fact_filkins?currentPage=all" target="_blank">story</a> in the <em>New Yorker. </em>However, Filkens also points out that the picture is more positive for Kurdistan. In fact, on this election day, there is a very good <a href="http://rudaw.net/english/kurdistan/30042014" target="_blank">television piece</a> on whether Kurdistan is democratic, citing evidence that aspects of democracy have taken hold even if much still needs to be done. The challenge is addressing some of the issues, including a lack of a free press and various human rights abuses, while continuing to keep Kurdistan secure from the violence facing the rest of Iraq.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddam Hussein's former headquarters in Sulaimaniya</td></tr>
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I announced to my staff this week that I would be stepping down as Country Director later this year, though I will continue on as Technical Advisor to Iraq. It has been my privilege to live and work here for three years, leading the organization as Iraq Country Director for the last two years, and the decision to step down has been a very difficult one, even though I knew it had to come one day. I love my staff and am very proud of the work we do here, but I also love my family and want to spend more time with them in the US (even as I travel to Iraq and elsewhere on occasion). I know I will leave the office in very good hands, with my dear friends and colleagues, Heidi, who will be our new Country Director, and Kak Shwan, our long-time Director of Finance and Administration, supported by all our amazing staff members. And even after I step down, I look forward to continuing my work not only with the Iraq office of Heartland Alliance International, but also developing legal protection and other programs in other countries. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kak Shwan, his wonderful family and<br />
their amazing hospitality</td></tr>
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A final word: my son and his wife open their new store<em>, <a href="http://us3.campaign-archive1.com/?u=318a936b0c30ad2e2ed8a5913&id=2941bbc4cb&e=2c63652ad4" target="_blank">gather</a></em>, this Saturday in San Francisco, and I urge everyone who might be in Northern California to go (and encourage your friends to go) to the grand opening!</div>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-45978354130284514532014-03-29T19:25:00.000+03:002014-03-29T19:25:28.856+03:00It's Spring!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lights of Nawroz</td></tr>
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Last week, Kurds in Iraq and throughout the Middle East and Central Asia celebrated Nawroz -- Kurdish New Year. The holiday is a time to demonstrate support for the Kurdish cause and coincides with the vernal equinox, or arrival of spring. Its roots are ancient; this from Wikipedia:</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">According to Kurdish myth, Kaveh was a Kurd who</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> lived 2,500 years ago under the tyranny of Zahak, an Assyrian</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> who is named Zuhak by the Kurds. Zuhak's evil reign caused spring to no longer come to Kurdistan</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">. March 20 is traditionally marked as the day that Kawa defeated Dehak. He is then said to have set fire to the hillsides to celebrate the victory and summon his supporters; subsequently spring returned to Kurdistan the next day. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">This legend is now used by the Kurds to remind themselves that they are a different, strong people, and the lighting of the fires has since become a symbol of freedom.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lighting Fires to Celebrate Nawroz</td></tr>
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Right now it's a beautiful spring: sunny, warm breezes and the landscape is green from the winter rains. It is probably one of the best, if not the best time to be in Iraq. Spring has also brought for Heartland Alliance International (HAI) in Iraq new programs. We are implementing a project with UNICEF to provide legal services to Syrian refugee juveniles who come into contact with the law and to juveniles living in some of the rural districts in Kurdistan, where they face even more challenges than those in the city because of the absence of juvenile facilities and lawyers, prosecutors, judges, etc., experienced in working with juveniles who are detained. Another UNICEF program involves a survey about knowledge, attitudes and perceptions in Kurdish households regarding female genital mutilation, a hideous practice that is relatively widespread and can greatly harm and sometimes kill girls who are its victims. Many people think the is limited to Africa, but in addition to its prevalence in Kurdistan, when I was recently in London, I read a story in the <em>Times </em>about a doctor and an accomplice who were arrested for FGM. It is a shameful and secretive practice that needs to be eradicated.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amusement park in Suly</td></tr>
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Spring also means that I've been here in in Northern Iraq almost three years -- a wonderful three years. I've come to love the people who have warmly welcomed me here. And I've come to realize that HAI's programs are quite amazing and by and large not duplicated by other organizations here. We work with the most vulnerable populations: survivors of torture, trafficking and self-immolation. We train community mental health workers to meet the needs of survivors of trauma. We do our work with local partners and the government helping to build capacity. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Millennium Hotel in Suly</td></tr>
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I also realize how much Sulaimaniya has changed in the three years I've been here: small changes, such as the availability of things that were unobtainable three years ago: broccoli, lettuce, San Pellegrino (my favorite drink). But there have also been large changes. On Thursday night (the Middle Eastern "Friday Night"), two friends and I ate fish and chips in the Irish Pub at the new Millennium Hotel, which would have been unheard of even a year or so ago. If we didn't know better, we would have thought we were in Dublin! It was tons of fun and is hugely popular with the locals, but I hope my adopted city does not become westernized to the point that it loses its character. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girls night out at the pub with Rachel and Annet</td></tr>
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My two "pub" friends, one English one Dutch, have been here since before Saddam Hussein's regime toppled and I can only imagine the changes they have witnessed. One of these friends founded -- together with a local partner -- and they now manage an NGO that works with children. We often get together to have supper and play Scrabble. I started playing Scrabble when I was a little girl and it won't shock those who know me to learn that I'm pretty competitive about it. Before our first game, I had to tell myself that it was only a game and that I didn't need to be so intense about it. As it turns out, Rachel is an avid Scrabble player whose single mindedness puts me to shame and as a result, she is very often the winner -- a bad night for her is when she doesn't use all her letters at least once, something I don't think I've EVER done.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Global Fellow Natasha "in bloom"</td></tr>
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This is one of the wonderful thing about living here: I am constantly surprised by the differences -- the music, the holidays, the ways of celebrating, the traditional dress, even the choice of pets. Natasha, our global fellow pictured below, is over the moon because a friend of hers just acquired a baby squirrel as a pet and, in her words, "it's SO cute." Having lived in the US, and having an apartment just a few feet from Central Park, I view squirrels -- which are abundant and often a nuisance -- as rodents with furry tails. But like everything else, these new experiences force me to look at things in a different way, and that's an incredibly good thing. So Happy Nawroz!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMo5mCL1yaBfVc5qpfhw2L4IXUwnWUCmxOoveVq0nX-YfBsoPhOnqeycCKlahsdIcDG5uHnpxaicJhWvru8z1ladqqlQJHdH10t_Wx2kxPoqR6eLZGtBV2ZNPcaax9Ql23GVcn8S7HrNF/s1600/Nawroz+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMo5mCL1yaBfVc5qpfhw2L4IXUwnWUCmxOoveVq0nX-YfBsoPhOnqeycCKlahsdIcDG5uHnpxaicJhWvru8z1ladqqlQJHdH10t_Wx2kxPoqR6eLZGtBV2ZNPcaax9Ql23GVcn8S7HrNF/s1600/Nawroz+2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Citadel in Erbil</td></tr>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-70704718157133770442014-01-20T19:56:00.000+03:002014-01-20T19:56:17.278+03:00Welcome 2014!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM0Wr22hJBS7PES1YMKjhivyek-TLzizsUyvjOsKd45LVc8NgdRqkoQrF5Hh6Bav0WQWz-7FESzDMtLqFX1rqPk8MwtpAFORqGf1XdRVLn1dp6zr53Gci_7NZYOjzWk1UVwVchf7Os-sE/s1600/IMG-20140118-00301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM0Wr22hJBS7PES1YMKjhivyek-TLzizsUyvjOsKd45LVc8NgdRqkoQrF5Hh6Bav0WQWz-7FESzDMtLqFX1rqPk8MwtpAFORqGf1XdRVLn1dp6zr53Gci_7NZYOjzWk1UVwVchf7Os-sE/s1600/IMG-20140118-00301.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow in the mountains outside of Sulaimaniya</td></tr>
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I know, I know, I'm just about the worst blogger in the world. Posting a new blog is always on my "to-do" list but with everything else on the list, a new post invariably falls to the bottom and before I know it, months have passed (this time, more than 2 1/2 months!). All is well here in Northern Iraq, though there have been a few failed IED's aimed at members of the Peshmerga (Kurdistan's armed fighters) in my hometown of Sulaimaniya. And of course, things in Southern Iraq continue to deteriorate not only with daily car bombings and other terrorist activities in Baghdad and elsewhere, but also from new dangers. As widely reported, militants from the Islamic State of Iraq and al-Sham (ISIS), an offshoot of Al Qaeda, are battling the Iraqi army to control Fallujah, Ramadi and other areas of Anbar province. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Kurdistan</td></tr>
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There is a terrible sense of <em>deja vu</em> about this latest wave of violence. First, as many as 70,000 people may have been displaced, with an estimated 14,000 Iraqis having crossed into the semi-autonomous Kurdish region in the past week after fleeing their homes in Anbar province to escape fighting that broke out at the end of December among government troops, tribal leaders and Islamist insurgents. Second, Anbar province was at the heart of the insurgency against US troops and this latest influx of IDPs (internally displaced persons) adds to the existing 1.13 million who were displaced inside Iraq during the sectarian violence of 2006 to 2008. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwcGjwindTRwl-iyS0iRIckZB-TrAL3mtrow36iDu4HKQoqO9Gsb2UxcZODzEviVSxUGr6b0qa9TCeM23mMTUNkpX_kpnSZ2K-lZNC231W7_RqJ09WigttuAp9UymhMiz9InFNq2hVRox/s1600/IMG-20130925-00110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwcGjwindTRwl-iyS0iRIckZB-TrAL3mtrow36iDu4HKQoqO9Gsb2UxcZODzEviVSxUGr6b0qa9TCeM23mMTUNkpX_kpnSZ2K-lZNC231W7_RqJ09WigttuAp9UymhMiz9InFNq2hVRox/s1600/IMG-20130925-00110.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arbat refugee camp</td></tr>
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Already overtaxed from hosting more than 200,000 refugees from Syria, the Kurdish Regional Government (KRG) is working with aid agencies to prepare a temporary holding camp for IDPs arriving from Anbar. Many of the Syrian refugees are also living in a temporary refugee camp at Arbat. Although the permanent camp was scheduled to open by now, it has not and so in addition to dealing with all the other hardships they face, refugees are now living through the winter in tents that were undoubtedly made for summer, in areas that become a sea of mud after the rains that come at this time of year. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFglKN774MGE59G0HxkJQzBp3t5BwuLChgJXl7OEQjqOQz7o9vBMQ6OvoQkTbxj2EHO_NfQXgYMf3eIAkMP032MAVM5jaB0Vay6ETD0HDQOlP9pwfs2SVYvSvPSfAW_z6rSI2kd0nQFua/s1600/IMG-20140118-00263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFglKN774MGE59G0HxkJQzBp3t5BwuLChgJXl7OEQjqOQz7o9vBMQ6OvoQkTbxj2EHO_NfQXgYMf3eIAkMP032MAVM5jaB0Vay6ETD0HDQOlP9pwfs2SVYvSvPSfAW_z6rSI2kd0nQFua/s1600/IMG-20140118-00263.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from 5-star hotel in Erbil</td></tr>
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Nevertheless, Kurdistan continues to thrive -- and things should only get better economically following the KRG’s announcement on January 8 that oil has begun flowing to Turkey. The federal government of Iraq continues to condemn this unilateral agreement between Turkey and the KRG but has its hands full with, among other things, the situation in Anbar Province. However, both the KRG and Al Maliki's government have reasons to resolve their differences. As noted by one security analyst, "given that both oil rights and Iraq’s portion to the KRG national budget remain
major points of contention between Erbil (the capital of Kurdistan) and Baghdad, Erbil is likely to
make efforts to find a solution, while Baghdad similarly maintains a vested
interest in resolving outstanding issues in order to increase general state
revenues." The bottom line is that the phenomenal growth in the Kurdistan region will continue, at least in the urban areas. Each time I visit the Erbil (which is once or twice a month), it seems as if hundreds of more apartments, shopping malls, homes and hotels are under construction. The same is true in the city in which I live, Sulaimaniya, though to a lesser extent. Yet Kurdistan remains a country full of contrasts -- modern cities alongside rural villages that seem to be lost in time. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kurdish Countryside</td></tr>
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As the new year starts, I continue to marvel at how incredibly fortunate I am to call this beautiful region my home. And I wish you, your family and friends a healthy, happy and prosperous 2014. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGt3vXlFfB09EsydRy5JK_A655WYWQV-XBrpb8ROpBV7B8Nb8tItt8O7sKyEHjVtXDvTwCOuGJKOXW3ne4sLr7riL2-89zFpMQnU0uxnKToHrfo4XzxkW63yAwZ0tdXNJPE0Xt4-q5q6kp/s1600/IMG-20140118-00267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGt3vXlFfB09EsydRy5JK_A655WYWQV-XBrpb8ROpBV7B8Nb8tItt8O7sKyEHjVtXDvTwCOuGJKOXW3ne4sLr7riL2-89zFpMQnU0uxnKToHrfo4XzxkW63yAwZ0tdXNJPE0Xt4-q5q6kp/s1600/IMG-20140118-00267.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-49184532463775874372013-11-01T16:05:00.000+03:002013-11-01T16:08:24.869+03:00Where has the time gone?!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Election time in Kurdistan</td></tr>
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I can't believe it's been over two months since I last posted a blog. So much has happened -- and with each event, I vowed to report it but there was always the next thing to do. So I'll try to remember everything now. First, in early September, electioneering in Kurdistan began and the countryside blossomed with flags, banners, candidates' pictures and more. Unlike in the US where election campaigns seem to go on endlessly, in Kurdistan (like the United Kingdom for example), there is a very short period of time for trying to persuade voters, but what people lack in time is made up with enthusiasm. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign of having voted</td></tr>
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Each party here has its own color: Goran Party is blue, PUK (Patriotic Union of Kurdistan) is green, KDP (Kurdistan Democratic Party) is yellow, Communist Party is red and Islamic Parties are brown. Nightly, people would ride in trucks, cars and SUVs honking, shouting out windows and waving flags -- and regrettably, guns. Unfortunately two people were killed in Sulaimaniya; I'm not sure it was entirely deliberate because a popular way of celebrating here (and elsewhere) is shooting guns in the air and bullets often go astray. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prime Minister Nechirvan Barzani (KDP)</td></tr>
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Even though democracy may not be perfect in Kurdistan as elsewhere (for example, the KDP-controlled Parliament voted this summer to extend for two years the term of President Massoud Barzani -- not to be confused with Prime Minister Nechirvan Barzani), it's thrilling to think that 10 years ago there was no democracy here but now people are exercising this new-found right and having an impact. For example, PUK (founded and led by Jalal Talibani, now President of Iraq) has always been Kurdistan's second most popular party after the KDP (initially led by Mustafa Barzani, President Barazani's father); but in September's election, Goran (which means "change") received more votes than PUK. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpdx_0hPdX_HqnlXkceRbnIPcTzKwIcxlSCn5XLX5H-JmaBHFqvZVgcoBOEIaChadmncOP4kUEaUsDdTylxOoZcd0Wox5ko07qh-6r2n-ObJuZeHIYCqaRHghAkk26m5-KQSYHk3IaTLIP/s1600/IMG-20130904-00034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpdx_0hPdX_HqnlXkceRbnIPcTzKwIcxlSCn5XLX5H-JmaBHFqvZVgcoBOEIaChadmncOP4kUEaUsDdTylxOoZcd0Wox5ko07qh-6r2n-ObJuZeHIYCqaRHghAkk26m5-KQSYHk3IaTLIP/s320/IMG-20130904-00034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Qubad Talibani (on left)</td></tr>
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The second Eid holiday of the year, Eid al Adha, came and went in mid-October much to the dismay of sheep around the region. Eid al Adha marks Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his first-born son, Ishmael, to God before God intervened and gave Abraham a lamb to sacrifice instead. So it is common here to slaughter a lamb to celebrate this holiday. Eid al Adha celebrations start at the same time as the annual Hajj in Mecca. Making the Hajj -- or pilgrimage -- to Mecca is the fifth pillar of Islam, a religious duty that must be done at least once in a lifetime by every able-bodied Muslim who can afford to do it. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eid al Adha is not a lamb's favorite holiday</td></tr>
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At the end of September, our office held its first staff retreat in over two years. The weather this time of year is perfect and there was lots of eating and dancing -- Kurdish staples -- as well as hiking to an ancient Assyrian stone carving thousands of years old. And to think we almost missed it! After more than half an hour of hard climbing and just as we had turned around to hike back to the van thinking we had come the wrong way, I looked up and there it was. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picnic dancers</td></tr>
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Fall (along with spring) is a time for picnics and some of the many of the visitors to Kurdistan from the US that we've had the last couple months were able to experience this wonderful event. Others were taken to different parts of the countryside to see what a beautiful country this is. The weather -- mild during the day, cool in the evenings -- will soon change (to rainy and cold) so you have to take advantage of it.</div>
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Assyrian Carving</div>
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</a>On a more somber note, on the same day as our staff retreat, the headquarters of the security forces (Asaish) in Erbil was attacked and several security members were killed. Al Qaeda offshoot, the Islamic State in Iraq and Syria (ISIS), claimed responsibility for this attack, the first in of its type in Kurdistan in six years. However, despite Al Qaeda rhetoric, security experts do not see this as the start of a time of insecurity. As one commentator pointed out, "Kurdish parties share one major enemy: anyone who attacks the nation they have fought for long and hard." On this Kurdistan's parties -- regardless of politics, elections and other differences -- and the Kurdish people remain united.<br /></div>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-82012453868986251732013-08-23T20:31:00.001+03:002013-08-23T20:31:51.292+03:00The Syrian Refugee Crisis<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Syrian refugees crossing into Iraqi Kurdistan <br />
(picture courtesy of the BBC and UNHCR)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">As I'm sure most of you know, the death toll in the Syrian conflict passed the 100,000 mark last month. Just this week, hundreds were killed outside of Damascus, including many children, in an attack using chemical weapons. This is a particularly horrific reminder for the Kurdish people in Iraq of the chemical weapon attacks against them by Saddam Hussein 25 years ago that also killed hundreds of innocent men, women and children. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Halabja March 1988</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Also this week, tens of thousands of refugees poured into Kurdistan -- almost 10,000 in one day, bringing the total number to more than 160,000 -- flooding already over-burdened refugee camps. But Kurdistan has not closed its doors to the refugees, and many of those arriving in Northern Iraq are Kurds. In addition, as widely reported by the BBC and others, president of Iraqi Kurdistan, Massuod Barzani, recently threatened to intervene <span style="color: black;"> to</span> defend the Kurdish population caught up
in Syria's unrest. He said if Kurds were "under threat of death and terrorism" then Iraqi
Kurdistan would be "prepared to defend them".</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Syrian refugees at the Iraqi border</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">(picture courtesy of the BBC and UNHCR)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Refugees are fleeing the horror of the war in Syria. Many -- including children -- have witnessed traumatic events and have been subject to torture and other forms of violence. They arrive here hungry, tired and traumatized. UNHCR and various organizations around the world are trying to respond to this crisis but are fighting an uphill battle. And the tragedy is that having escaped the horrors of the Syrian conflict, many refugees -- particularly women and children -- may become victims of human trafficking, including sex trafficking. In need of food and shelter, and unable to find jobs, displaced persons are often lured into sexual trafficking with promises of legitimate employment. </span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">In addition to the refugee crisis in the North, sectarian violence continues to escalate in Southern Iraq. With daily car bombings and other terrorist activity, the violence in Iraq is at its highest level since 2006. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times;">All in all, the needs here grow each day and of course, there are never enough resources to meet them. Heartland Alliance International is developing programs to respond to these challenges, including, for example, programs to serve survivors of trafficking -- particularly women and young people who are Syrian refugees -- through legal, social and mental health services. This is in addition to maintaining our current projects. I ask that you consider a donation to help us. I have set up a website where you can <a href="http://heartlandiraq.kintera.org/lynn" target="_blank">donate directly</a>. Please feel free to pass it along to your friends and colleagues and please know that any support is greatly appreciated.</span></div>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-19482122208124165872013-05-24T23:15:00.000+03:002013-05-24T23:28:08.459+03:00Two Years in Iraq<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Kurdistan is having a lovely spring -- not too warm (last time this year it had already gotten very hot) -- and it's been a busy one for me. I went to my first concert earlier this month. It was a famous singer, Neriman Baban, and it was called the "Home Concert" because he is from Sulaimaniya. He was great and he had wonderful musical accompaniment: a small symphony, a rock and roll band (drums, guitar and keyboard), some traditional Kurdish instruments and a chorus. I thoroughly enjoyed it. </div>
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Neriman Concert</div>
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Afterward,my colleagues and I went out for dinner to a new place in town: Burger Fuel. It is apparently a New Zealand chain and advertises that it serves New Zealand beef. We had cheeseburgers (my first since coming here), fries and a milkshake -- a perfect way to end the evening.</div>
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Last blog entry, I wrote about Heartland Alliance's 125th anniversary. I'm celebrating my two year anniversary in Iraq this month (May 26). It's hard to believe I've been here that long, and that short. On the one hand, I still feel like a new comer in so many ways -- other than a few words, I still don't speak the language and I still have so much to learn. On the other hand, I consider Sulaimaniya my home. When I reflect on the time here, I realize what an amazing experience I've been given by being able to work for an organization like Heartland, the many things I've learned and the opportunity to work and be with such wonderful people.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Being interviewed</td></tr>
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A couple of weeks ago I did an interview for Kurdsat TV. I was asked about Heartland's work here in Iraq and Kurdistan and had a chance to talk about our programs: treating survivors of torture and other trauma, training Community Mental Health Workers, providing legal services to vulnerable populations, including victims of trafficking and gender based violence, and the importance of our youth media program in Kirkuk and Baghdad, two cities that suffer the horrible consequences of continuing sectarian and ethnic violence. </div>
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I was also asked why I would leave London and my former career to come work for an NGO in Iraq. Many people might think it was so I could help change things--help improve people's lives by working for human rights-- and I suppose that there is truth in that. But what I have discovered is that the experience has profoundly changed me: seeing first hand what it means to grow up and live throughout years and years of conflict, being challenged to approach problems in new ways, working with wonderful partners and staff, and living in a culture with a long rich history, but one which includes barbarian traditions, such as female genital mutilation and a belief that "honor killing" is justified if a woman has "shamed" the family. </div>
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And I was asked what I would remember most when I left Iraq. That question was easy. Without a doubt, I will remember the warmth and generosity of the people here with whom I've been privileged to live and work. If you'd like to hear the interview, it's available on <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZfF-OK558c&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank">YouTube</a>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Generous Kurdish hospitality</td></tr>
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I have been incredibly privileged over the last year as Country Director to have a wonderful mentor and teacher -- our MENA Regional Director, Ramsey Ben-Achour. Ramsey was previously Heartland's Country Director in Haiti and he made my transition into the job of leading the Iraq office easy. I've learned a remarkable amount from him and so enjoyed working with him. Like my colleagues in Sulaimaniya, Ramsey has enriched my experience here incredibly; in fact, there was a time when I couldn't imagine being able to do my job without him to turn to. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ramsey and me at his going away party</td></tr>
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Regrettably, I'm going to have to now learn how to get along without him as he will be leaving Heartland in August after he gets married. Thank you, Ramsey, for all you've given Heartland and all you've given me, and may you and Eva have a wonderful life together. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-Ry0m1_FUoYQ17XxoMpoKiv4oja2SZ6LOjUnhHLo3gjDTu4ahpB0rQT-KT0fqbre-W0j5zBk6JupzgCirhzzlNhbaO2IOiVUNewe_cpcAJC_dFV8Q7iZBFtB0q_l8Mfvb3Ky_gYF98pT/s1600/IMG-20130502-00128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-Ry0m1_FUoYQ17XxoMpoKiv4oja2SZ6LOjUnhHLo3gjDTu4ahpB0rQT-KT0fqbre-W0j5zBk6JupzgCirhzzlNhbaO2IOiVUNewe_cpcAJC_dFV8Q7iZBFtB0q_l8Mfvb3Ky_gYF98pT/s320/IMG-20130502-00128.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring Sunset</td></tr>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-82990758507465914992013-04-06T16:29:00.001+03:002013-04-06T16:41:51.665+03:00Happy Birthday Heartland Alliance!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGOXMbGL2OSNon4qbn7Jn0z-04x-tF-PjrG7FJk5coVYH5q5mBKm9_JJJGS_RnpA8-bae2hxcaIjsSxH1pupIy4IlxxiY2MDHiLOjG13PY-SP5RXyRlv3TUID1St-OAg_pbhJfNzIfpIa/s1600/IMG-20130403-00020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGOXMbGL2OSNon4qbn7Jn0z-04x-tF-PjrG7FJk5coVYH5q5mBKm9_JJJGS_RnpA8-bae2hxcaIjsSxH1pupIy4IlxxiY2MDHiLOjG13PY-SP5RXyRlv3TUID1St-OAg_pbhJfNzIfpIa/s320/IMG-20130403-00020.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm coming</td></tr>
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It's hard to believe that my last post was more than four months ago. Time seems to pass so quickly yet at the same time, November seems like years away because so much has happened since then. Winter has turned into spring, and yet like other parts of the world, one day it can be sunny and warm, another day it is cold and rainy. But flowers are blooming and the hills are green, rather than the brown they wear for most of the year.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqmOIwbFj36j8m5kmQJAF9Kci2EjHZxzibhh9jy2TIEKtRF0YYFCja5WyaQgy2_arNgOuU-WO-xlun10qUt-u5vRie9GnQQe2NXKqkNgB-nsWG20bC8hUlYzV6cDr3fbewPYsPzRlblum/s1600/IMG_1457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqmOIwbFj36j8m5kmQJAF9Kci2EjHZxzibhh9jy2TIEKtRF0YYFCja5WyaQgy2_arNgOuU-WO-xlun10qUt-u5vRie9GnQQe2NXKqkNgB-nsWG20bC8hUlYzV6cDr3fbewPYsPzRlblum/s320/IMG_1457.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
Spring blossoming trees</div>
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This change in seasons is marked by Nowruz in Kurdistan -- Persian New Year and the first day of spring. This holiday is celebrated for several days with picnics and other events. Just as on New Year's Eve (December 31), the main street in Sulaimaniya closed down and there was a huge street fair. So, there are two "new year's" celebrations -- the one on January 1 and the one in March. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lKUqvo3mZ3qC-a3qSpNh9XWy6H-nqSFLrM77c8VjbjW20PVN7S4pGy9cIcW6rZsG3RBCWhOBVfFNm3JL5Zk6M8GNwmJjExHUIo9tBI7KmI3v549chev6eD6-IhtBUW6kaOAiL8FMIwdb/s1600/IMG-20130330-00013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lKUqvo3mZ3qC-a3qSpNh9XWy6H-nqSFLrM77c8VjbjW20PVN7S4pGy9cIcW6rZsG3RBCWhOBVfFNm3JL5Zk6M8GNwmJjExHUIo9tBI7KmI3v549chev6eD6-IhtBUW6kaOAiL8FMIwdb/s320/IMG-20130330-00013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lights of Nowruz</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
For both celebrations, flags and lights are hung everywhere, and pictures of Kurdish heroes decorate the thoroughfares. They are wonderful times to see family and friends, share sweets, and wear traditional Kurdish dress (though this is primarily at Nowruz given that it's cold here in January!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg1sSoFhaGmTYwfL6Iyse8411vgzTaYutY0xJ6_NnVB1gsEeYIUMBhdBWJhU33KpykU1ouobiRzLl2XAc-GQ4wPgvHazy09cw0N_8IRncbNci8USUMqfcs9pkwrVgSID2m8siVYD-anNbR/s1600/IMG-20130325-00008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg1sSoFhaGmTYwfL6Iyse8411vgzTaYutY0xJ6_NnVB1gsEeYIUMBhdBWJhU33KpykU1ouobiRzLl2XAc-GQ4wPgvHazy09cw0N_8IRncbNci8USUMqfcs9pkwrVgSID2m8siVYD-anNbR/s320/IMG-20130325-00008.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the main streets in Sulaimaniya decked out for Nowruz<br />
</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
There are two other important dates in March to commemorate. First, International Women's Day is observed on March 8. Here is the message I sent to our staff to mark the occasion:<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">One hundred eleven years have passed
since the first International Women’s Day was marked by demonstrations and
celebrations. On this day, it is fair and important to ask how much
progress has been made for women and girls around the world; it is more urgent
and timely to ask how much further we can and must go. Equal rights and
opportunities in the home, school and workplace are fundamental, but more
important is recognizing that women and men have equal value as human
beings. This is and must continue to be our goal. Thank you for your work
in support of not only women but all those whose rights we are committed
to protecting and upholding.</span></i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaLy0y0iFo92QlxSrSSNvAKeOJWcmdyLzC4lWJujHtrgJy_PXoj0-ApzWhwKb9mvrjHTlu89U4OJsAwMEasKHrTEjUXzbalQFuPJwQ8dtLqlHKylsmAtAzqE0eUHaiZsoFCZTdBxl63Uz/s1600/IMG_1383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaLy0y0iFo92QlxSrSSNvAKeOJWcmdyLzC4lWJujHtrgJy_PXoj0-ApzWhwKb9mvrjHTlu89U4OJsAwMEasKHrTEjUXzbalQFuPJwQ8dtLqlHKylsmAtAzqE0eUHaiZsoFCZTdBxl63Uz/s320/IMG_1383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our office commemorating International Women's Day</td></tr>
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The other important date in in March is March 13—when Heartland Alliance celebrated its 125th Anniversary. As our President, Sid Mohn said:<br />
<br />
[<em>S</em>]<em>ince 1888, we’ve been providing the very services people need to end poverty
and build a safe and stable life for themselves and their families. Heartland
Alliance traces its roots to legendary social reformer, pioneer human rights
worker, and Nobel peace prize winner—Jane Addams. Her legacy endures and I see
her spirit and commitment to those who need help in every one of our offices in
every part of the world. Today, as we celebrate this milestone, I ask you to
join me. Join me in believing that we CAN live in a world where children live
safe from violence and terror. That every working person CAN earn enough to
support their family. That elderly people CAN live with dignity. And that the
disabled, sick and mentally ill CAN get the help they need. At Heartland
Alliance, we ALL believe that ordinary people can create an extraordinary world.
Thank you again for being a part of this important work."</em><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncE8EW4Xi2WAu-0BVmsuap16R2_SV7rTb9m3S1Z4X3ckTu816KKHEX9CO7x-Earj0gI0Dx2R8U-Z4G_XbmJ2B0gYJpeCzDnrLF1CqpI2UAGC3u-EC96hz4KuLpKoYZh_ddMUSnrQ_XzYm/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncE8EW4Xi2WAu-0BVmsuap16R2_SV7rTb9m3S1Z4X3ckTu816KKHEX9CO7x-Earj0gI0Dx2R8U-Z4G_XbmJ2B0gYJpeCzDnrLF1CqpI2UAGC3u-EC96hz4KuLpKoYZh_ddMUSnrQ_XzYm/s320/IMG_1313.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring sky</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One way of joining us in our work is to become a Global Fellow, which is how I came to Heartland Alliance International Iraq. Our Global Fellow Program is a great way for people to work in one of our international country offices, for six months to a year (though like me, this may often turn into another position), and see how this suits them (work in conflict or post-conflict areas is not everyone's cup of tea). A Global Fellow can work on a specific project (for example, as a lawyer in one of our legal services programs) or in a specific area (such as a finance Global Fellow). It's a great opportunity to experience life in a country like Iraq (or Colombia or one of the many countries in Africa and other parts of the globe where Heartland has offices). To find out more about the Program, you can go to <a href="http://tbe.taleo.net/CH12/ats/careers/requisition.jsp?org=HEARTLANDALLIANCE&cws=1&rid=932" target="_blank">our website</a>. It will also tell you how to apply. Right now, for example, we are interested in applications for Global Fellowships for our finance department and also for one of our legal programs (since Iraq is a civil law country, someone with civil law experience/knowledge is preferred). The organization is also interested in Global Fellows who can help with writing grant proposals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwplUAI6hlTM12dFnHMaGdsO5gUVvgPr0UYdlz8nu7DlvAGy-avudmiKyLkltouXyrSUtGJ8JbAfsMzLqD9vkfCcwq9rP4wD7s9SCe1ugFKMpCMYba-jjHdlDC68t586HdKmtcoCkqajTo/s1600/IMG_1395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwplUAI6hlTM12dFnHMaGdsO5gUVvgPr0UYdlz8nu7DlvAGy-avudmiKyLkltouXyrSUtGJ8JbAfsMzLqD9vkfCcwq9rP4wD7s9SCe1ugFKMpCMYba-jjHdlDC68t586HdKmtcoCkqajTo/s320/IMG_1395.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheep crossing the road to get to greener pastures</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Most often, though not always, our Global Fellows are at what I call either end of the age spectrum: they are either young men and women who have just graduated from college or another degree program and who are anxious to get their feet wet in the international NGO world. </span>Or like me, they are starting a new career in the later part of their life.</span> But no one should consider becoming a Global Fellow unless they want new experiences that don't include the creature comforts that they may otherwise be used to and unless they believe that we, in collaboration with our local partners, can help make a better world.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYaF-mU15GXyHzGuSKa5xl2kVkkU1R-zu1VZl7tOeHxl_x6AIaJy3MEEjYZAFiqoIB0qFAO5PbiTr-HtDCsWvXiGtdj3B37rU1LwxuMItGSh08E0J40hfLK60lc3L-8RUsxs9YrRhEfvnb/s1600/image+(3).jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYaF-mU15GXyHzGuSKa5xl2kVkkU1R-zu1VZl7tOeHxl_x6AIaJy3MEEjYZAFiqoIB0qFAO5PbiTr-HtDCsWvXiGtdj3B37rU1LwxuMItGSh08E0J40hfLK60lc3L-8RUsxs9YrRhEfvnb/s320/image+(3).jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pak</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oh, and one other change of the season. We have a new member of our household, Pak. He has settled in nicely and we've learned that he is a very smart dog. Among other things, he can literally climb the fence around our yard like one would climb a ladder so we have to keep him on a long chain. Otherwise, he would terrorize the neighbourhood, not because he's mean but because most Iraqis do NOT like dogs and keeping them as pets is very unusual. Happy Spring everyone!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidkhYtYuYjN_EaSjx3uzD-FO0NQb11VOHMxvc0vo-2yZ2GrJI3BkBSGrnmiakT9tpunsY6M2Tg2T2Yt72F2d1Y93j6e5pV0LFXFrCEvKAJes6ga4DCB1-a7johUqoZqVYULUsTnDAwPW4X/s1600/IMG_1367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidkhYtYuYjN_EaSjx3uzD-FO0NQb11VOHMxvc0vo-2yZ2GrJI3BkBSGrnmiakT9tpunsY6M2Tg2T2Yt72F2d1Y93j6e5pV0LFXFrCEvKAJes6ga4DCB1-a7johUqoZqVYULUsTnDAwPW4X/s320/IMG_1367.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our global fellows (left) and <br />
our program coordinator</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-72928959502584458882012-11-25T00:00:00.000+03:002012-11-25T00:13:53.013+03:00Happy Thanksgiving!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtfAPdxOaSNu1kKj6LZnAea0hhST7wsHhw0JqZK4ScXaVXThyPpXmHL-4nxWbfUC6kb2vkqhyphenhyphensV4Im3lhj-DhQyFYfyi624gqLGNuU42h7DDhe1TPkpKBCLEWluOrF4jnZWWBjkJOT6upm/s1600/thanksgiving.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtfAPdxOaSNu1kKj6LZnAea0hhST7wsHhw0JqZK4ScXaVXThyPpXmHL-4nxWbfUC6kb2vkqhyphenhyphensV4Im3lhj-DhQyFYfyi624gqLGNuU42h7DDhe1TPkpKBCLEWluOrF4jnZWWBjkJOT6upm/s1600/thanksgiving.jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanksgiving in Sulaimaniya</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Though Thanksgiving is obviously not a holiday here in Iraq, my two new housemates and I left the office a little early so that we could cook a special Thanksgiving dinner. We didn't have turkey but we did have two nicely stuffed chickens, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans with almonds and apple crisp ala mode. It was really delicious. Actually, we could have bought a turkey that we saw in the market bazaar last weekend but none of us was up for killing and de-feathering a live bird. I guess we are not true pilgrims!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU2BIkUF97_yr0HIjkMYxmenVVx2iTHtFysXLObNQaXiCrH-LGbn8uvUN_cuDwgTP0Th3ulHw0iUYa6Z731jNcr0s5Ta4aPwiREYq9Jzoeur0OBp7VJ7PBBihvVjKGGW-ULgozX-Eo5qz/s1600/turkeys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfU2BIkUF97_yr0HIjkMYxmenVVx2iTHtFysXLObNQaXiCrH-LGbn8uvUN_cuDwgTP0Th3ulHw0iUYa6Z731jNcr0s5Ta4aPwiREYq9Jzoeur0OBp7VJ7PBBihvVjKGGW-ULgozX-Eo5qz/s320/turkeys.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turkeys awaiting their fate in the bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Earlier on Thanksgiving Day I was one of three judges at a debate contest held between a team from the American University of Iraq in Sulaimaniya and the University of Kurdistan-Hawler (the Kurdish name for Erbil). The topic was "Oil: a Curse or a Blessing?" My co-judges were from the Ministry of Higher Education and the newspaper <em>Awene. </em>It was so interesting hearing the viewpoints of those who live in a country with lots of oil and where, in fact, it can be both a curse and a blessing at the same time. For example, in Kurdistan (as well as other oil-producing nations), the income from oil, if managed correctly, can be used to build hospitals, schools and much-needed infrastructure. It can be used to fund legal aid and social services programs. However, that's a big "if." The money from oil, if mismanaged, can, among other things, also foster corruption and stifle entrepreneurship and industry.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyFg4KOge15gPs18H04T13UQ-S84-6KyFLX4bXB3_Ix1rNaPxq5li1MmNpTIbM_NLW5qo1w-XOsazEu17P2Zb2IJ6ClLfJmba9lU5fRx8BIbFwF9YhufK0PFs-MEcdszLYBSzTdRNSYzJ/s1600/debate.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyFg4KOge15gPs18H04T13UQ-S84-6KyFLX4bXB3_Ix1rNaPxq5li1MmNpTIbM_NLW5qo1w-XOsazEu17P2Zb2IJ6ClLfJmba9lU5fRx8BIbFwF9YhufK0PFs-MEcdszLYBSzTdRNSYzJ/s1600/debate.jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debate topic: "Oil -- a Curse or a Blessing?"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Speaking of hospitals, one of the projects I would like to do in Iraq if we can get the funding is a program for burn victims. The rate of suicide and attempted suicide by self-immolation is alarmingly high and growing (not to mention "forced suicides" -- a form of honor killing). Women are most often the subjects and in many cases, they are victims of gender-based violence or suffer depression for other reasons. I visited the burn unit of the hospital in Suly and saw a number of women who had been badly burned, not necessarily by accident. One of the mental health workers from the TRTC (Trauma Rehabilitation and Training Center) who works at the burn unit on a volunteer basis gave two of my colleagues and me a tour and talked about the need for a psychiatrist on staff, medication to treat depression, and additional staff to provide mental health services. A legal component could be included in the program to provide legal services for women who have attempted suicide because, for example, they are divorced and have no rights to visit their children (the situation of one woman we met in the burn unit). We are going to write the proposal and hope that the funding will come.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxte9JXf1oqNIYKzKzMAipjmYQyZFknKHJbAbxm9Q4n-pyVyHNRWkw24lkB92yrOU2R-KlTN7lXZaAzWb4bnOprT05wqiERqfRVgiTG6pAFAg4buZ2WCoEMrLKv3237SaAQTWlxj8OOyOp/s1600/burn+unit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxte9JXf1oqNIYKzKzMAipjmYQyZFknKHJbAbxm9Q4n-pyVyHNRWkw24lkB92yrOU2R-KlTN7lXZaAzWb4bnOprT05wqiERqfRVgiTG6pAFAg4buZ2WCoEMrLKv3237SaAQTWlxj8OOyOp/s320/burn+unit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of the victims in the intensive care wing of the burn unit was there because he had been injured in an explosion from a car bomb in Kirkuk. Kirkuk is a disputed part of Iraq, with some claiming it is part of Kurdistan while others claim that it is not. Because of this conflict, Kirkuk has seen a number of terrorist attacks. Kirkuk is also an area rich in oil, and -- at least for now -- that oil is a curse and a major reason why people are fighting over who controls that city and region. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImnNs4FBFPdCG6QbWbZ2E-H_zY3BZCHIyiD30csCnf0oUohrkNfwCpUmNcShBWsFvyO0aThKAK3Gdh259acVaI-TX8zj6PY7xy6JilOADVs-42nj3e6bu8UOL9K1NgnwNxVNQrYdcb7_n/s1600/dolma.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImnNs4FBFPdCG6QbWbZ2E-H_zY3BZCHIyiD30csCnf0oUohrkNfwCpUmNcShBWsFvyO0aThKAK3Gdh259acVaI-TX8zj6PY7xy6JilOADVs-42nj3e6bu8UOL9K1NgnwNxVNQrYdcb7_n/s320/dolma.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolma and Pringles?</td></tr>
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As is often the case with the Thanksgiving Day holiday, my housemates and I also feasted the day after (known in the United States as "black Friday). Friends took us on a picnic in a beautiful area outside of Halabja. The land belongs to one of our friend's grandfather who not only hosted us, but provided us with pomegranates from his trees (this is the season for that wonderful fruit and the best variety comes form Halabja).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSWqjKGgmxKAzLGN4cvMO0Yx1ZGjhL-y_gajk37Kj074595H41qmy4tjMC_vcgGz01bWkDho6fAh0sKJh6XIE6yUT-1QWFabGB_LP0XvbbwfGskmzkG373Z1RYriROQDgUFhmeXqcOGiM/s1600/pomegranates.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSWqjKGgmxKAzLGN4cvMO0Yx1ZGjhL-y_gajk37Kj074595H41qmy4tjMC_vcgGz01bWkDho6fAh0sKJh6XIE6yUT-1QWFabGB_LP0XvbbwfGskmzkG373Z1RYriROQDgUFhmeXqcOGiM/s320/pomegranates.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picking pomegranates</td></tr>
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After lunch we visited the memorial to the victims of the poisonous gas attack on the city of Halabja which was part of Saddam Hussein's genocide campaign against the Kurdish people. We also visited the cemetery where many of the 6000 victims are buried in mass graves. These are powerful reminders of the hideous acts human beings can commit against one another.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPqGS6zzoVTz6-kd4IY4sINIMYl5yuYk32eoqIAaPaM2vRavUP0RzKWc6XMdVmiTmmTPtG2dbexBM9UklYi4H4L77Fq9oCEKAmylC-fJ-DA6Ef5lsJFfZzFtFQbz8Ox8FvTTaumIRo7nr/s1600/halabja.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPqGS6zzoVTz6-kd4IY4sINIMYl5yuYk32eoqIAaPaM2vRavUP0RzKWc6XMdVmiTmmTPtG2dbexBM9UklYi4H4L77Fq9oCEKAmylC-fJ-DA6Ef5lsJFfZzFtFQbz8Ox8FvTTaumIRo7nr/s320/halabja.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The memorial in Halabja<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8PFAnvgBb4-YLtoJRudR231BpHFCD50s6XwSFADTiJPpyOWq3F2Agy-wdK8MIg0D95NAAqJVoPhlxfPsrpLPAjl-nhjlrsXnkZq1f4rk12T51T6ZIxlkQ-dWvR1ezpQkLeujT6iNswSH/s1600/cemetary.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8PFAnvgBb4-YLtoJRudR231BpHFCD50s6XwSFADTiJPpyOWq3F2Agy-wdK8MIg0D95NAAqJVoPhlxfPsrpLPAjl-nhjlrsXnkZq1f4rk12T51T6ZIxlkQ-dWvR1ezpQkLeujT6iNswSH/s320/cemetary.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Halabja cemetery with markers for each family killed. </td></tr>
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Both Thanksgiving Day and the day after were excellent opportunities for me to reflect once again about all I have to be thankful for -- the privilege of working in this country with its wonderful people, the hope that no one will ever have to experience another Halabja, the ability to experience fellowship with good friends, and immense gratitude for the abundance of other gifts I have been given. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq83FO8HJBiKLJpAslJxzaBpDSO9GlDO8nTwAxz-DNXcLM2iSFQ2yRel7wVx9pCyXew_8WRjYieqwmXM1hth8CAhOypUd9cvP0cWjXNl17CaU9FXj8zjJfh4mmld4sCizjMtQgNa83lGLg/s1600/scenery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq83FO8HJBiKLJpAslJxzaBpDSO9GlDO8nTwAxz-DNXcLM2iSFQ2yRel7wVx9pCyXew_8WRjYieqwmXM1hth8CAhOypUd9cvP0cWjXNl17CaU9FXj8zjJfh4mmld4sCizjMtQgNa83lGLg/s320/scenery.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the beautiful scenery on the drive <br />
through the country to and from Halabja. </td></tr>
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-28555461590174667762012-11-10T20:27:00.002+03:002012-11-10T20:27:28.293+03:00Election Report from Iraq<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSyJeK_qSG4Sg5YIhd9DiuUVi5yFKMjiWhhfgtuO57zpr-eru2kqSN_9P4Wpa3VR0bCI1-KhNiwcPu0SRs9ehfsZhRooJsLm-t-NjYT8GM4JZaiD-H4BuZ9q09rYDdFzgiNL2bFZ7L924/s1600/IMG_0539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSyJeK_qSG4Sg5YIhd9DiuUVi5yFKMjiWhhfgtuO57zpr-eru2kqSN_9P4Wpa3VR0bCI1-KhNiwcPu0SRs9ehfsZhRooJsLm-t-NjYT8GM4JZaiD-H4BuZ9q09rYDdFzgiNL2bFZ7L924/s320/IMG_0539.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Living in Iraq gives me a new appreciation for the rights we have as Americans to participate in the democratic process of Tuesday's election. I have had so many Kurds congratulate me on the re-election of President Obama and exhibit sincere joy. One staff member, who speaks very little English, was so excited to have watched the election results and the president's victory speech -- she rushed into my office with a huge smile, as happy as the Americans I watched in Chicago and Times Square on CNN celebrating after the election results came in. <br />
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One former Heartland staff member sent the following (unedited) message to a mutual friend who passed it on to me: "I want to say re–elected Obama congratulation, congratulation to all American people, really American people did a right decision, in here in sulaimania me and [my colleague] were Voted to Obama spiritually."<br />
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Another (Kurdish) staff member told me he couldn't sleep the night before worrying and he particularly noted in Obama's victory speech his reference to "people in other parts of the world risking their lives to have a chance to argue, cast their votes, like we did today." He said "that sums up what we are dealing with in Kurdistan and Iraq. I think Iraq and the world will be a better place with Obama in the White House."<br />
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This last message is particularly apropos in light of the following warning the US State Department sent the morning of the election:<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><em>The Department of State warns all U.S. citizens of an increased threat of terrorist activity against U.S. interests in northern Iraq in the run up to and through the U.S. elections on November 6, 2012. The Department of State urges all U.S. citizens to defer non-essential travel to urban areas in Northern Iraq, including Erbil, Suliemaniyah, Dohuk and Kirkuk. The Department of State further advises U.S. citizens to avoid large gatherings or public events as those are often targets of terrorism. Additionally the U.S. Embassy has directed Chief of Mission personnel to defer all non-essential travel to Northern Iraq until further notice.</em></span></div>
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In my 18 months in Iraq, this is the first warning I have seen that actually mentions Sulaimaniya. Luckily the day passed here without incident, though a car bomb killed more than two dozen people at an Army base near Baghdad.</div>
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May our re-elected president and all the leaders of the world join together to bring greater global peace and security.</div>
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In Chicago where I used to live there's a joke that the city has two seasons: winter and construction season, and by construction, what is meant is road construction and refurbishing -- including filling in the potholes from the prior winter. I feel like we're living in a bit of that here. A couple of weeks ago I went to lunch with friends on a Saturday and when I came back, the road and what amounts to a sidewalk in front of the office and my house had been totally torn up (as shown in the above picture). This week steps were taken to finish it:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWpzuL4zlRV8Th63Yn3pjNcI5VMiwvR3vadnOuEpnfbdUjMlbIobzgMy6-d87BP1rXeimDjY37erEetMJW49pQq_KTCDXND1DeI1nWfGBmnUcV0sZQqxnT8seZwY-rBjdwk185SYoehr9H/s1600/IMG-20121108-00784+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWpzuL4zlRV8Th63Yn3pjNcI5VMiwvR3vadnOuEpnfbdUjMlbIobzgMy6-d87BP1rXeimDjY37erEetMJW49pQq_KTCDXND1DeI1nWfGBmnUcV0sZQqxnT8seZwY-rBjdwk185SYoehr9H/s320/IMG-20121108-00784+(1).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And I have to confess that once the cement dried, like a little kid I had to write my name in it -- but no hand print.<br />
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It's also the season for pomegranates -- and Iraq has the best in the world. So now and for the next few weeks I'll be feasting on this wonderful fruit.<br />
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-31798391668568267162012-10-21T10:23:00.001+03:002012-10-21T10:23:26.444+03:00Ending Domestic Violence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAEh2nC2iifcUvJLeUgrSGpEf_buKpA42B5tmarNZPkGhWks3LqfExy01W5G7bvoHvzLwt_gN7zRBx7EHL_Ewo2c9tF6BqYI9_tGUv9FFV8PMHorD8VEQC4iqvEXkKjDPQcwODAYFSAokN/s1600/IMG_0623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAEh2nC2iifcUvJLeUgrSGpEf_buKpA42B5tmarNZPkGhWks3LqfExy01W5G7bvoHvzLwt_gN7zRBx7EHL_Ewo2c9tF6BqYI9_tGUv9FFV8PMHorD8VEQC4iqvEXkKjDPQcwODAYFSAokN/s320/IMG_0623.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rare site: a river near Duhok </td></tr>
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Ramadan and the Eid holiday are over and Kurdistan is resuming a more regular schedule. For me this included a trip to Erbil and Duhok where I was last week.* In Erbil I was a panelist for the Kurdistan Careers Conference (which was repeated in Sulaimaniya on Friday and Saturday), attended mainly by recent college graduates. The panel was made up of expats talking about the organizations they worked for, their experiences, opportunities for employment, why they came to Kurdistan and how they see Kurdistan's future. </div>
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I was the only representative from an NGO at the conference. My co-panelists predicted a very bright future for the region with, among other things, oil and gas production (Exxon-Mobil and Chevron both have agreements to drill here). I suggested that although Kurdistan had many positive things going for it, there were some things which serve as impediments to full development and that their generation would need to change them. For example, the KRG (and many other governments) have a political system in which so much of the government's funds go to "public sector employment" rather than building sorely needed schools, establishing hospitals, supporting legal assistance programs, etc. Another is the influence of tribal and cultural traditions that on the one hand give the Kurdish people their identity and rich heritage, but on the other too often perpetuate human rights violations. Finally, I opined that any country or region which discounts 50% or more of its human resources -- its women -- will never grow into the kind of nation it otherwise could be. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiEDdVHzu_AbTMZyZgKqEohRD0ufVOkqeiUFwtr4_9wFZX5zKYkLXge40PIuJeD1YH1tO-IxCpiu8atKnoOku9jy59qKtmhSolJig5McR0nw5jVewPTzrHMr9SU_mLknkGwqRX0VOYTvA/s1600/IMG_0670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiEDdVHzu_AbTMZyZgKqEohRD0ufVOkqeiUFwtr4_9wFZX5zKYkLXge40PIuJeD1YH1tO-IxCpiu8atKnoOku9jy59qKtmhSolJig5McR0nw5jVewPTzrHMr9SU_mLknkGwqRX0VOYTvA/s320/IMG_0670.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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American University of Iraq in Sulaimaniya, site of the<br />
Kurdistan Careers Conference</td></tr>
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One of the significant human rights issues in Iraq and a growing problem, even in areas like Sulaimaniya, is the problem of suicide and forced suicide, which is just another word for honor killing. And the incidence of "self" immolation is alarmingly high. Many of the women who burn to death or who are badly burned but survive are taking, or trying to take, their own lives because they feel there is no alternative. In many cases, for example, they have been forced into unhappy and often abusive marriages.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9aCHiIADrOVqZmsoEOXsmgCCIjTL7wpDw4hfr38Mkkx3iX4g6r4X7GxoBKdRmd619sdjbrnYAWl-qMH7n5x4jYKsgX-ZT9m3zLcf8aDh_eI_RjkHL995L4ZKui3Ad5xxmfLIOR_9lF_W/s1600/IMG-20120830-00649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9aCHiIADrOVqZmsoEOXsmgCCIjTL7wpDw4hfr38Mkkx3iX4g6r4X7GxoBKdRmd619sdjbrnYAWl-qMH7n5x4jYKsgX-ZT9m3zLcf8aDh_eI_RjkHL995L4ZKui3Ad5xxmfLIOR_9lF_W/s320/IMG-20120830-00649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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But Iraq and Kurdistan both have recently enacted anti-domestic violence laws that make illegal not only domestic violence, but also forced marriages, underage marriages, genital mutilations and other forms of abuse. As part of the law, the Directorate for Follow-up of Violence Against Women was created to help those protected by the law. This Directorate refers many women to Heartland Alliance's Legal Help Desks (part of the UNDP Access to Justice Project).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZgBMdF6owdbxQM_9sFh2GNYrFw970DOovLPS_VSzjF_DXl0trRe0NkDPiO4DFVU6sfzvtV4UuPzaF4ekU98JdUMrKhTmyWVJsNdNuHkT9s8kTgjI15_MFMRb9Tum-Rm5-vEoPlqvljAq/s1600/IMG-20120830-00646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZgBMdF6owdbxQM_9sFh2GNYrFw970DOovLPS_VSzjF_DXl0trRe0NkDPiO4DFVU6sfzvtV4UuPzaF4ekU98JdUMrKhTmyWVJsNdNuHkT9s8kTgjI15_MFMRb9Tum-Rm5-vEoPlqvljAq/s320/IMG-20120830-00646.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
The Heartland Alliance Access to Justice Project Manager,<br />
Duhok Administrator and me with the Director in Samel and<br />
her assistant</td></tr>
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When we were in Duhok we visited the Directorate in the city of Duhok and also in the District of Semel. In order for the Anti-Domestic Violence Law to be accomplish its purposes, it must be implemented effectively and enforced. I'd love to be able to get the funds for a program to help do this. For example, the law includes penalties, both monetary and penal, for certain violations; if damages were awarded under the enumerated circumstances, it might be a way to help women who are left with little if any means of supporting themselves (and so they are often forced to stay in abusive relationships). </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPGpgonRoto1G7yilZ6CVv_wXx1BvhSUhhpf_lajsxSepBbCA1EZPneDyT7IqB-290kKyqnYyaERVPH28nK-2Fr4FurXoIuJa8z7r-ZMY2jC0NkWJOmN3Z-U4ACCdqvVgoMIGK94nirBh/s1600/IMG-20120830-00639+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPGpgonRoto1G7yilZ6CVv_wXx1BvhSUhhpf_lajsxSepBbCA1EZPneDyT7IqB-290kKyqnYyaERVPH28nK-2Fr4FurXoIuJa8z7r-ZMY2jC0NkWJOmN3Z-U4ACCdqvVgoMIGK94nirBh/s320/IMG-20120830-00639+(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We also visited the men's penitentiary just outside of Duhok where prisoners who have already been to trial and are found guilty are held; while there we met with its director in order to coordinate outreach sessions, periodic visits, and referrals and we toured the facility. The differences between this penitentiary and those in the United States are remarkable. The Duhok facility holds about 1000 prisoners in 100 "suites" of approximately ten men. The suites include the bedroom, a kitchen, a sitting area and an outdoor space. In fact, except for the steel doors that are locked each night, it felt more like a dormitory than a prison.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQWqvDbJ5UghhEu_3DcQ1QD5vpRDQV_xslSdcHqq-VxkhNqTPkRCMOHzQrj-_wxF8189CHX_AlkKUCIeju3YXVPbUxfuIbbyHkdV2rUtF7d2NItxwkKOku5unylUZtodLMiWY04luhhFJ/s1600/IMG-20120830-00635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQWqvDbJ5UghhEu_3DcQ1QD5vpRDQV_xslSdcHqq-VxkhNqTPkRCMOHzQrj-_wxF8189CHX_AlkKUCIeju3YXVPbUxfuIbbyHkdV2rUtF7d2NItxwkKOku5unylUZtodLMiWY04luhhFJ/s320/IMG-20120830-00635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In one of the prison suite sleeping area with the director of the<br />
penitentiary</td></tr>
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Last week I also had the opportunity to attend the Kurdish wedding of one of our staff members. When I say wedding, it's not what we mean in the United States and other Western countries. In fact, what we would call the engagement is actually like a combination of the engagement and marriage; the couple have a ceremony conducted by the religious leader and then they have several months during which they get to know one another, acquire the things necessary to set up house, etc. After that, they have the "wedding" which in fact is when they take pictures (in this case the bride wore a very Western-looking white wedding gown and the groom wore a tuxedo), then join their guests for dancing and dining -- the party (or what we would call the wedding reception). After that, they start their lives together. A number of Heartland Alliance staff sat at one table, danced and had a great time celebrating this happy occasion!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAaPvoSJOXMMnt4wBb_K6B1VPgj8pLSDr5d_Ww7A_HEPEx-PfUNd8Ez_uvqCyn05PFsHui4jgebe5mFupq8vhQ7qP1jpSTg74b_bOAsv4GttzScnnZqd6wAvoZgW_VMj5EPWS86_xkiGU/s1600/IMG-20120826-00626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAaPvoSJOXMMnt4wBb_K6B1VPgj8pLSDr5d_Ww7A_HEPEx-PfUNd8Ez_uvqCyn05PFsHui4jgebe5mFupq8vhQ7qP1jpSTg74b_bOAsv4GttzScnnZqd6wAvoZgW_VMj5EPWS86_xkiGU/s320/IMG-20120826-00626.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way to the wedding -- I borrowed traditional<br />
Kurdish dressy clothes </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
*NOTE: THIS BLOG WAS ORIGINALLY POSTED IN SEPTEMBER<br />
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Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-91313542545535933402012-07-21T17:44:00.000+03:002012-07-21T17:55:13.444+03:00A New Year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFsoPsznFEU3n4ztQhEvGd6xcZo8fq0wxng29jBQPEmqyzBE6gDRtIsIg3BjC6eyUuhcova-Cn_3r6rnRpD4OYNvY3sCakoKFOtsqePg7ltKPn8jX_tyQWFiAtUTAgFl0xve7ISkhFQWh/s1600/IMG-20120705-00531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFsoPsznFEU3n4ztQhEvGd6xcZo8fq0wxng29jBQPEmqyzBE6gDRtIsIg3BjC6eyUuhcova-Cn_3r6rnRpD4OYNvY3sCakoKFOtsqePg7ltKPn8jX_tyQWFiAtUTAgFl0xve7ISkhFQWh/s320/IMG-20120705-00531.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">UNDP Access to Justice Project with the support of Norway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
I know it has been a very long time since I've posted, but it's been a busy several weeks. First of all, I'm pleased to report that the UNDP Access to Justice Project for Vulnerable Iraqis Project was extended in May and will continue another eight months, into 2013. The project is still sponsored by UNDP (United Nations Development Programme) and supported this time by Norway in lieu of the European Union. So we're very glad to be able to continue this essential program which provides outreach and legal and social services to those in need. For those of you who saw my last post about our Photo Exhibition , <em>What the Eye Does Not See: The Faces of Vulnerability in Iraq</em>, all the beautiful photographs can be viewed on:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G8VGIp2LY8&feature=youtube_gdata">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G8VGIp2LY8&feature=youtube_gdata</a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7q-ggmogjpG7bQYZidSG9zfjiTP_Gq7JQuIFsvPQXoRLzegVaTsbYftpf5lpsLTB7XrFJnB6dMYKyyKO8Zv3Ss3qmNH8M2YIXgtf9zGx0LBYtqee1fLr_ySOMryd8gitLA7dvMEsgXUjU/s1600/IMG-20120721-00544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7q-ggmogjpG7bQYZidSG9zfjiTP_Gq7JQuIFsvPQXoRLzegVaTsbYftpf5lpsLTB7XrFJnB6dMYKyyKO8Zv3Ss3qmNH8M2YIXgtf9zGx0LBYtqee1fLr_ySOMryd8gitLA7dvMEsgXUjU/s320/IMG-20120721-00544.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grapes and pears in our garden.</td></tr>
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I'm now into my second year living here in Sulaimaniya. Another summer has arrived and with it the heat. This week it is 40 degrees Celsius (or as I was taught, centigrade) -- about 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Not too much different than what friends and family in the United States have been experiencing. In many ways, it's more tolerable because it is dry heat with very little humidity. On the other hand, the inevitable power outages mean long periods of time (e.g., four hours) without air conditioning in our house. During these times, including as I'm writing this, the goal is to move as little as possible, but even then eventually sweat drips down your front, back, legs, arms, etc. As you can see from the pictures above and below, summer also means wonderful produce. We have a very large grape arbor in front of the house. The grapes are pretty sour, but perhaps we can set up a winery and make a little money to help support our programs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOYAP7Du7WQ-AA1pXwVvilF8q8v9kH341iERPHz-BKik2MRJbtUT_AHaWfV7TpvdUYMW0LDFUe8epK2Bey3ixafkkYkWM1c9suY-cN58CTheZX8AFZ_lFQNiRRP2OIhBKKv405HG_5W34/s1600/IMG-20120721-00542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOYAP7Du7WQ-AA1pXwVvilF8q8v9kH341iERPHz-BKik2MRJbtUT_AHaWfV7TpvdUYMW0LDFUe8epK2Bey3ixafkkYkWM1c9suY-cN58CTheZX8AFZ_lFQNiRRP2OIhBKKv405HG_5W34/s320/IMG-20120721-00542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For much of the Arab world, Ramadan started yesterday, but in Iraq it started today (which made me happy that I had one final day of the weekend where I could eat regularly). Once again I will be fasting while I'm here as I did last year, though I do drink water during the day. <br />
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With the advent of my second year here, I have become Country Director of Heartland Alliance's Iraq office and programs (I tell my friends and former work colleagues that it's sort of like being the CEO of a foreign subsidiary). As you can imagine, I've felt a little overwhelmed these first few weeks as I've gotten to know the programs, financial systems, etc. but I love it and feel so privileged to be entrusted with this role. My direct boss, the MENA (Middle East North Africa) Regional Director is terrific -- very supportive and affirmative. As the International HR person at headquarters in the US pointed out, I've had many roles with Heartland, including Board member, member of the President's Council and Legal Programs Director here in Iraq, and I hope I can continue to be of service in this new position. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibZP9344tnsv6F1-75s2LX6FvdK1bWKGj3uQkfGopvgZUFu7naOYSygYhDXGilk6b041Zyy_pYRntBeA4eRrgX0Js5KLX_nQ37MG4TvWnErIO5kP2KoH0Ti1Hq_iKheR1lmA9JY4lLkmcE/s1600/IMG-20120520-00501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibZP9344tnsv6F1-75s2LX6FvdK1bWKGj3uQkfGopvgZUFu7naOYSygYhDXGilk6b041Zyy_pYRntBeA4eRrgX0Js5KLX_nQ37MG4TvWnErIO5kP2KoH0Ti1Hq_iKheR1lmA9JY4lLkmcE/s320/IMG-20120520-00501.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proud mom with my handsome son and <br />
gorgeous daughter-in-law at law school graduation</td></tr>
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One reason why I haven't posted in a while is that I had a long visit to the United States to attend my son's graduation from law school and to celebrate my father's 90th birthday with my mom and the rest of our family (which includes 1 son and 1 daughter-in-law, 2 sisters, 1 brother, 3 nephews, 5 nieces and a niece-in-law, Jim and a boyfriend of one of my nieces -- 19 in all). It was great being with my family for this happy occasion and to celebrate my dad's life. When I was growing up, my father encouraged me to pursue the things I loved and taught me to believe that I could do anything I wanted with hard work and determination. I never dreamed I would be given the opportunity to have two wonderful careers -- first as a corporate lawyer and now as a human rights worker -- and to be given the privilege of living and working in Iraq with our terrific staff and the wonderful people who live here. And I'm tremendously grateful for the continuing support of my mom and dad, even though they would rather that I be living closer to them.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OQBu3xh5KtD5lUVFLzU3oN4ag8yX6OHjaOiyLyM5qTT6ZRtjMb2Yd3L1H_acglOokJHIX0C8KB6xaPLn3RY0TRVkyj3vE21-hd-t5tt4ZsBoASz_jSpXj4yzKL0BKIlsqI5FavBMI8kZ/s1600/IMG_3964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-OQBu3xh5KtD5lUVFLzU3oN4ag8yX6OHjaOiyLyM5qTT6ZRtjMb2Yd3L1H_acglOokJHIX0C8KB6xaPLn3RY0TRVkyj3vE21-hd-t5tt4ZsBoASz_jSpXj4yzKL0BKIlsqI5FavBMI8kZ/s320/IMG_3964.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my mom and dad, son and daughter-in-law</td></tr>
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</div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-86200623561235438412012-05-12T17:34:00.000+03:002012-05-13T07:44:43.777+03:00What the Eye Does Not See<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQcGWTjrvsTkJkkwOYpl55H9f3ZRGZpbjvRa8-THts4b76sMAuK0DuUq5etuPMLtYpdDOSIGMp_1ApRpPy-_-DCYnnbmDBwMgVsw6pko1xwDTKPApARvUh04cKWA9mhXx_mG94qDYWlPg/s1600/Soran+Naqishbandi02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQcGWTjrvsTkJkkwOYpl55H9f3ZRGZpbjvRa8-THts4b76sMAuK0DuUq5etuPMLtYpdDOSIGMp_1ApRpPy-_-DCYnnbmDBwMgVsw6pko1xwDTKPApARvUh04cKWA9mhXx_mG94qDYWlPg/s320/Soran+Naqishbandi02.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Domestic violence is illegal; </span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">don’t keep it
behind closed doors. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Photograph by
Soran Naqishbandi<o:p></o:p></span><span style="font-size: small;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">As I mentioned in my last post, one of the supplemental activities of the UNDP Access to Justice for Vulnerable Iraqis is a photo exhibition and media installation. The photo exhibition, entitled <em>What the Eye Does Not See: The Faces of Vulnerability in Iraq,</em> consists of 20 photographs by various Iraqi photographers with captions highlighting human rights issues that the Access to Justice Project seeks to address. <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The focus of the Exhibition is to
(a) draw attention to and raise awareness of various issues, including gender
based violence, trafficking, forced marriage, economic exploitation of children
and other violations of human rights suffered in particular by vulnerable
Iraqis, and (b) inform people about their rights under the Iraqi Constitution
and </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">other laws.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span> </div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLqorrSGjFXfO4A1_SC0O3ujjzBv7jb0xtlV00LVlAfGjgtk94NplBX2Fmiyh1V_kjV7L004ohEBMxMLs9oGwgVGGM_vivwJcqGPxzl0nlsqjO06xEx0W1BhYmVk3Ih13jkmjeKaWrW84W/s1600/IMG-20120420-00386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLqorrSGjFXfO4A1_SC0O3ujjzBv7jb0xtlV00LVlAfGjgtk94NplBX2Fmiyh1V_kjV7L004ohEBMxMLs9oGwgVGGM_vivwJcqGPxzl0nlsqjO06xEx0W1BhYmVk3Ih13jkmjeKaWrW84W/s1600/IMG-20120420-00386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLqorrSGjFXfO4A1_SC0O3ujjzBv7jb0xtlV00LVlAfGjgtk94NplBX2Fmiyh1V_kjV7L004ohEBMxMLs9oGwgVGGM_vivwJcqGPxzl0nlsqjO06xEx0W1BhYmVk3Ih13jkmjeKaWrW84W/s200/IMG-20120420-00386.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The media installation accompanying the photo exhibition is a closed circuit television playing public service announcements produced for the Access to Justice Project and other Heartland Alliance-Iraq programs. Subjects of the PSAs include trafficking, forced marriages (which are now illegal), <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Zhn
ba Zhn (one for one) marriages and<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">
various religious figures speaking out against violence against women. </span></span></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVZQSTMuv6VawGDa-nygOyTSX4kHUgGPRmXxGK26ew26uvkCcCGpm1GD_Hs9LJjXqxJ-omwuL7t4rSz_z63gX9YwItHv_-Iv1P5HSKzWTDHIspNZks1U7LBiTY92CEVSymKh29Cwp3uwW/s1600/IMG-20120420-00412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVZQSTMuv6VawGDa-nygOyTSX4kHUgGPRmXxGK26ew26uvkCcCGpm1GD_Hs9LJjXqxJ-omwuL7t4rSz_z63gX9YwItHv_-Iv1P5HSKzWTDHIspNZks1U7LBiTY92CEVSymKh29Cwp3uwW/s1600/IMG-20120420-00412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVZQSTMuv6VawGDa-nygOyTSX4kHUgGPRmXxGK26ew26uvkCcCGpm1GD_Hs9LJjXqxJ-omwuL7t4rSz_z63gX9YwItHv_-Iv1P5HSKzWTDHIspNZks1U7LBiTY92CEVSymKh29Cwp3uwW/s200/IMG-20120420-00412.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The first showing was held in Sulaimaniya's Azadi Park on a lovely sunny Friday, the traditional day for picnicking in Kurdistan. The A2J Legal Help Desk lawyers and social worker were on hand to answer questions and to distribute brochures and pamphlets about various issues addressed by the UNDP Access to Justice Project and other Heartland Alliance programs, including the institutionalized violence against women in Iraqi society. Children in particular were interested in reading about these issues -- a positive sign for change in future generations, which is critical for the advancement of human rights. </span></span></span></span></span></span>(An informal survey indicated that Haedar Umar's photograph below was the favorite of those viewing the show in |Azadi Park.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The photo exhibition/media installation is now at the Investigations Courthouse in Erbil (through May 16). The show was opened by representatives from UNDP and courthouse officials, including judges. It will then be in the courthouse in Sulaimaniya and hopefully thereafter in the Duhok Courthouse.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtT59jzIEHQHhB4ocAXHQqxM6JAT7QvmxN-URS-2ADPww5QuMohdP1DPn8m9ED2RvDw4zBDdhnuKvKtmgQBps2X19Kg7UoGjY7r4PluATnYPT4lVCfOo2QPLku4O1ks0ly73gCYDWEPLp6/s1600/IMG-20120510-00455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtT59jzIEHQHhB4ocAXHQqxM6JAT7QvmxN-URS-2ADPww5QuMohdP1DPn8m9ED2RvDw4zBDdhnuKvKtmgQBps2X19Kg7UoGjY7r4PluATnYPT4lVCfOo2QPLku4O1ks0ly73gCYDWEPLp6/s200/IMG-20120510-00455.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ADtnicbd1gYvSta2u1Wb6GSPC7NtZfpZhkngEajhXLRJy1Uw8d65_fm2FQTjBufLEFo1rLv-iCTtNXUSZwYABz8OTgsuY59DVbzR46tJwTi5hOAmXxnC6e6YC5B-wlZrUrlYLYNq5063/s1600/IMG-20120510-00461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ADtnicbd1gYvSta2u1Wb6GSPC7NtZfpZhkngEajhXLRJy1Uw8d65_fm2FQTjBufLEFo1rLv-iCTtNXUSZwYABz8OTgsuY59DVbzR46tJwTi5hOAmXxnC6e6YC5B-wlZrUrlYLYNq5063/s200/IMG-20120510-00461.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">On April 25-26, the International Bar Association held the </span><a href="http://www.ibanet.org/Article/Detail.aspx?ArticleUid=3942bac1-12a2-4ccd-b0be-4253a441ad68" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">5th World Women Lawyers' Conference</span></a><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"> in London, my former "home town." Women attorneys -- and a few men -- from around the globe attended. I was privileged to be a participant in the opening panel, <em>Women in war zones: the role of women lawyers in areas of strife and reconstruction. </em> The session covered the role of women, and in particular, women lawyers, in the restoration of peace, and the reconstruction of social administrative structures and organizations in the implementation of the rule of law.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Women and girls under the age of 18 are being
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">forced into prostitution. To combat this, the</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Iraqi government has passed a law making sex</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">trafficking illegal. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Gill Sans Ultra Bold Condensed","sans-serif"; font-size: 8pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-language: AR-IQ; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Photograph by Haedar Umar</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I discussed the rule of law in Iraq, including the historical, cultural and religious context, the gains that have been made and the continuing challenges to its implementation. Fellow panelists included women from Zimbabwe and Nigeria, and an English lawyer who had worked in Afghanistan for a year on the implementation of the rule of law there. </span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The other speakers highlighted issues such as female genital mutilation and other forms of violence against women, the all too often deplorable conditions suffered by refugees and IDPs (internally displaced persons), illegal trafficking and other human rights abuses facing vulnerable populations. </span></span>Regrettably, these problems are not only prevalent in the countries represented by the panelists -- Iraq, Afghanistan, Nigeria and Zimbabwe -- but throughout the world. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I continue to be amazed, saddened and angered by the inhumanity that exists, not only in post-conflict and "developing" countries, but also in those nations that are deemed to be "modern" and "developed." But I am optimistic that by providing information about human rights to all persons, and helping people understand and enforce their rights, one can not only make a difference in the lives of those particular beneficiaries, but can help bring about change in the world, albeit slowly and often painfully. This is what programs such as the UNDP Access to Justice Project and organizations such as Heartland Alliance seek to do. If you would like to support the work of Heartland Alliance in Iraq or elsewhere, please consider making a donation on the Heartland Alliance </span><a href="http://www.heartlandalliance.org/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">website</span></a><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo exhibit at Azadi Park, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sulaimaniya</span></td></tr>
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<em>The Iraqi Constitution provides that the state will care for the handicapped and those with special needs and will ensure their rehabilitation in order to reintegrate them into society. Kurdistan recently passed a law protecting the disabled. </em><br />
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</div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-70130710197028427432012-04-18T13:57:00.002+03:002012-04-18T15:42:00.051+03:00Spring in Sulaimaniya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGj_clxGo_J2JUdUCZZinGpT7DkdqItTVi0pZHsjB4Ad5EFSpJ_zfT95rFwe_rjDGfFil3ufrbrBdnPas3D21OKR9upoXAJ545jJRSzSUVgphyNUpYQVQj0JFEYWd8YnECozDKSZhi22kJ/s1600/IMG-20120305-00302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGj_clxGo_J2JUdUCZZinGpT7DkdqItTVi0pZHsjB4Ad5EFSpJ_zfT95rFwe_rjDGfFil3ufrbrBdnPas3D21OKR9upoXAJ545jJRSzSUVgphyNUpYQVQj0JFEYWd8YnECozDKSZhi22kJ/s320/IMG-20120305-00302.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">View from my office of snow-capped mountains.</div></td></tr>
<><><><div align="justify"></div></></tbody></table>I know it's been ages since I've posted a new blog. During that time we've passed through the winter with its snow, cold and winds. I'm from Chicago and the Midwest where the winters are REALLY cold and the wind whistles across the flat prairie lands and the bridges over the Chicago River. I swear that the office building where I worked before moving to London and then Iraq was on the coldest city corner in the world. The difference is that here in Iraq, as I've mentioned before, the electricity goes off for periods of time -- sometimes several hours -- and of course that means the heat goes off. I often went to bed in socks, sweat pants, a hoodie and gloves under a down comforter and blankets piled on. I'm pretty warm-blooded but I swear there were times when I didn't think I'd ever be warm again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgES0Fke9uK0VBUAh3kFcH1VGE9kr4Ghj2BTSXCXeG5HlANKbtBgi8yhyphenhyphenOjMwUQ5HEsmKWJTNd89W99Pv85nELO2wzETtYQ2xVz5UKfVGEJcF7RuKuGGCJhOhpKrcHTDoBTxDyVO-1P1lhB/s1600/IMG-20120412-00366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgES0Fke9uK0VBUAh3kFcH1VGE9kr4Ghj2BTSXCXeG5HlANKbtBgi8yhyphenhyphenOjMwUQ5HEsmKWJTNd89W99Pv85nELO2wzETtYQ2xVz5UKfVGEJcF7RuKuGGCJhOhpKrcHTDoBTxDyVO-1P1lhB/s320/IMG-20120412-00366.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fields of grass whizzing by on the drive from Erbil to Suly.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;">But now it's spring and the loveliest time of the year in Kurdistan. We've had rain and everything is green. Riverbeds that used to be dry are now filled. The temperatures are perfect and there's often a delightful breeze. There are two gardenia trees right outside my office that smell heavenly. The roses are blooming in the gardens. It will be like this for another month or so before the heat and dry weather arrive -- so it's to be enjoyed: picnics, weekend strolls, sitting outside reading, just soaking in the sunshine and fresh air. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZcQETsZUtcZByGz075FcM2xuffQICPQT1dW0_QUk_qOTSYMSK2t78f9SGEDwZrvTcXQf_YwnFc4FyIjZdI-_Z8GMbVIp9gG1q6JoK-iofE54vnac5HJHQy9HKTPCn51TJxhZFRDVDp7FR/s1600/IMG-20120412-00358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZcQETsZUtcZByGz075FcM2xuffQICPQT1dW0_QUk_qOTSYMSK2t78f9SGEDwZrvTcXQf_YwnFc4FyIjZdI-_Z8GMbVIp9gG1q6JoK-iofE54vnac5HJHQy9HKTPCn51TJxhZFRDVDp7FR/s320/IMG-20120412-00358.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing a river which is dry most of the year.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">The above pictures were taken during a trip last week from Suly to Erbil to Duhok and back again. It's a difficult trip -- 5 to 6 hours each way on roads, some of which are good and some of which are bad. But our drivers are wonderful; they drive fast but carefully and I'm always confident that they will complete the journey safely (when people ask me if I have safety concerns here I always reply that if I'm injured or killed, it will most likely be in a traffic accident!). And I never cease to be surprised and delighted by the contrasts in this country. For example, on this last trip, I saw sheep being herded right beside a football pitch where kids were playing the most popular sport in the world. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnqIlw-4fiIE7olRU3HusQR3a6QfotcaKftZTM9Ay0ajJfOFO2_Ic6X2jfoz5VKWDLocFnGrcbrLVelqsLKoHOomszdbyqpTgQnHWVHJwPvEJjB04iEEjOXp5eI5CPQcRcS3z4Brxz6J_/s1600/IMG-20120412-00337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnqIlw-4fiIE7olRU3HusQR3a6QfotcaKftZTM9Ay0ajJfOFO2_Ic6X2jfoz5VKWDLocFnGrcbrLVelqsLKoHOomszdbyqpTgQnHWVHJwPvEJjB04iEEjOXp5eI5CPQcRcS3z4Brxz6J_/s320/IMG-20120412-00337.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">UNDP Access to Justice Team in Duhok</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">The UNDP Access to Justice Project for Vulnerable Iraqis officially ended on March 31, 2012; however, we've continued programming on a part-time basis in April and are hoping for additional funding that will continue the Project to the end of the year. Since the Project's inception, Heartland Alliance's two A2J Legal Help Desk teams in Sulaimaniya and Duhok have served approximately 6300 people who were provided legal consultations and full case representations, received answers to various inquiries and/or attend Mobile Legal Clinic Outreach sessions at a variety of locations in the cities and outlying districts of Suly and Duhok, including high schools, jails, women's shelters, senior centers, youth centers and orphanages, and for various groups (e.g., women's unions, organizations for disabled persons, and tenants' rights organizations, just to name a few). </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU4kqwOPSBG3EKBuq-cNt5DKn7JwUuNwZcfqlyvtzsu2oUUomAip1iO5vtK29q272rJmBJfwC0pdaolwFpQKrQvwtAU0gcbKjMdZSyifToZhjqp1gJAbDDDMDc4FVQMMtUnFPG7GfRKcw/s1600/IMG-20120418-00370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU4kqwOPSBG3EKBuq-cNt5DKn7JwUuNwZcfqlyvtzsu2oUUomAip1iO5vtK29q272rJmBJfwC0pdaolwFpQKrQvwtAU0gcbKjMdZSyifToZhjqp1gJAbDDDMDc4FVQMMtUnFPG7GfRKcw/s320/IMG-20120418-00370.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sulaimaniya Legal Help Desk</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Each Legal Help Desk team member -- lawyers and social workers -- as well as our administrative assistant in Duhok and staff in Sulaimaniya, contribute to the effectiveness of the Project. But the success of the Access to Justice Project is owed primarily to our Project Coordinator. She is an amazing woman who I am privileged to be able to work with and call my friend. In addition to being a dedicated, intelligent, kind, accomplished, beautiful and professional woman who is passionate about the work we are doing, she is a devoted wife, mother, daughter and sister. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiuA5IWmjreDsw4DmnPQgsPr4ZfDhW0LWTKaC4HquZPiDPAxPk6PAbHVb9hJT2MUHhxvG2mUUo5y5Hc5C88v45idsJuYNIp960AqS8kDjUFlRw41oTOIzkxhYcWYrAlVWtZv4tbPN6tO3/s1600/IMG00559-20110921-1418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiuA5IWmjreDsw4DmnPQgsPr4ZfDhW0LWTKaC4HquZPiDPAxPk6PAbHVb9hJT2MUHhxvG2mUUo5y5Hc5C88v45idsJuYNIp960AqS8kDjUFlRw41oTOIzkxhYcWYrAlVWtZv4tbPN6tO3/s320/IMG00559-20110921-1418.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The UNDP Access Project Coordinator and me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">She was raised by wonderful parents who gave her a sense of independence and instilled in her the belief that she can do anything she puts her mind to, and she and her husband are now passing these gifts on to their two daughters. She and others like her are the hope of Kurdistan and Iraq. She abhors corruption, believes in the sanctity of human rights for every Iraqi, rich or poor, and is willing to work for the change that is necessary if this country is going to be able to provide equality, peace, security and wellbeing for all its citizens. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5VqBgS4eRSS94Zcrk6UVDqNeDgOh9WDhBZYUDQgT9f0o6dxQHxAZfL-LqGn14W1EecbkhGXsHwx7HYJUTV5je_qV29qOUxuyWKAPkAlURAdSQaGvEdCXSzXpBQbEg_KS0qp0ZGiFNplP/s1600/IMG-20120303-00295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5VqBgS4eRSS94Zcrk6UVDqNeDgOh9WDhBZYUDQgT9f0o6dxQHxAZfL-LqGn14W1EecbkhGXsHwx7HYJUTV5je_qV29qOUxuyWKAPkAlURAdSQaGvEdCXSzXpBQbEg_KS0qp0ZGiFNplP/s320/IMG-20120303-00295.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Project Coordinator (second from right) with her<br />
youngest daughter, her mother (second from left), her<br />
sisters and nephew.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This Friday we are having a photo exhibition/media installation in Azadi Park, the largest park in Sulaimaniya, as part of the UNDP Access to Justice Project Supplemental Activities program. Entitled <em>"What the Eye Does Not See: Faces of Vulnerability in Iraq,"</em> the exhibition includes 20 beautiful photographs by various Iraqi photographers and is intended to highlight the work of the UNDP Access to Justice for Vulnerable Iraqis Project. The exhibit will then be held in various other venues in Sulaimaniya, Erbil and Duhok. If you are in Sulaimaniya on Friday, come see us! You can view the photos on line at <a href="http://www.iq.undp.org/Gallery.aspx?q=SUQ9OSY%3d-A7G5GBMPV9w%3d">UNDP's website.</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-28283378790992655462012-02-11T22:20:00.000+03:002012-02-11T22:20:02.418+03:00On the Road<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0o4JjhsREj-YFDeOnP3yWsvGFKlvfkWph0UVaf5Y4L8LCl6vaPKchpBorPp16Kcaa_jXKcK0KDG5RhrwDCH4B_nY-yWTEnKdCg6e291zrktFhLdANQB8WxUbvRnfGl-yJWouoEjNNvN9W/s1600/IMG-20120205-00239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0o4JjhsREj-YFDeOnP3yWsvGFKlvfkWph0UVaf5Y4L8LCl6vaPKchpBorPp16Kcaa_jXKcK0KDG5RhrwDCH4B_nY-yWTEnKdCg6e291zrktFhLdANQB8WxUbvRnfGl-yJWouoEjNNvN9W/s320/IMG-20120205-00239.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow on the mountains outside of Sulaimaniya</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> I’ve done a lot of travelling over the last couple of weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had an international consultant from Bogota, Colombia here to conduct advanced training.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She is a law professor as well as a human rights advocate, particularly for women.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colombia’s constitution is very similar to Iraq’s and she speaks from first-hand experience about how to handle cases involving deprivations of human rights and constitutional and other challenges.</span></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">First, she visited the Legal Help Desk in Sulaimaniya where in addition to meeting with and discussing matters with the lawyers and social workers, we accompanied members of the team who, as I mentioned in my last blog, conducted a Mobile Legal Clinic outreach session in Halabja.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then on to Erbil where we met the WEO Access to Justice team that runs the Legal Help Desk in the Investigation Courthouse in the capital of the KRG.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was able to go to a court hearing which was actually held in the judge’s office (with about a dozen or more people lined up outside the door – some with lawyers, most without).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently there are not enough court rooms pending completion of new courthouse being built.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Then on to Duhok where in addition to meeting and speaking with the Access to Justice team, we did several outreach sessions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two were held in secondary schools, one for boys (an Arabic school) and one for girls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At both sessions, the Kurdish “Misuse of Communications” law was discussed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As in so many other countries, mobile phone harassment (e.g., threats, calling at all hours, lewd messages) as well as internet misuse (e.g., sexually explicit photos) is a significant problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The difference here is that a woman is often victimized twice – first as the recipient of the harassing calls and then as a target of family members who think she has been in contact with men.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, the </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">local media have published daily reports about women attacked by relatives on suspicion of contacting or being contacted by strangers.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGt8cpfyKUiYELSgNTPbqd3CwvIZ63cqXI8Up1SsRf01yX-RekxyXEHioTPfHXXP6WxKkxZJQ4ddYWlRZYBLHhPonnULdOEm4F9ZprKLS1HFe40PQdhc65cuM6ieWk5UieTk1rKSoEcgbo/s1600/IMG-20120131-00179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGt8cpfyKUiYELSgNTPbqd3CwvIZ63cqXI8Up1SsRf01yX-RekxyXEHioTPfHXXP6WxKkxZJQ4ddYWlRZYBLHhPonnULdOEm4F9ZprKLS1HFe40PQdhc65cuM6ieWk5UieTk1rKSoEcgbo/s320/IMG-20120131-00179.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LARGE (poster size) framed photograph hanging in the <br />
Secondary School of Girls in Duhok (as I've mentioned many times before, <br />
the Kurdish people are good friends of the United States).</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Also discussed was another topic which is particularly relevant to high school students:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the stiff penalties for driving underage (less than 18) without a license and other traffic offenses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If caught driving without a license, the defendant (and his or her parents if they allow it) can be jailed for one to six months. On the other hand, the punishment for yelling at the traffic police (who take the place of stoplights at busy intersections) is one to five years in jail!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Driving without a license must be a relatively frequent occurrence because there were LOTS of questions trying to find loopholes in the law. (“Can I drive if my father is sick, it’s an emergency and I need to drive him to the hospital?” The answer, by the way, is no.)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSZ_zpW5YTddJ63_AqlKB6bQd2idWe0_Yovfni1GuorgBlPzLOSEKv_61qli-U8aBrvNwZ9nAdiVhqjfMRMhzSJkW8FF4xnp_nPJwQ2nJAP7FgfDO1HT2LyiErsBSTs1uIHDOAUhPjC77/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSZ_zpW5YTddJ63_AqlKB6bQd2idWe0_Yovfni1GuorgBlPzLOSEKv_61qli-U8aBrvNwZ9nAdiVhqjfMRMhzSJkW8FF4xnp_nPJwQ2nJAP7FgfDO1HT2LyiErsBSTs1uIHDOAUhPjC77/s320/photo.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With members of the Kurdistan Handicap Union</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">We also met with the Kurdistan Handicap Union of Duhok and as in Sulaimaniya talked about the proposed legislation the Iraqi Kurdistan Parliament is considering. This new law would take steps in protecting the rights of disabled citizens who, as one article states, “historically have been underserved, underrepresented and too often subjected to institutional neglect.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fittingly, just a days before this outreach session, Iraq ratified the UN Conventionon the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. </span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSHBpjVmdpWIEwGbSws1_jUBTngKGePGu7Vdkc1qpykWJAav9fN" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" class="uh_hi" data-height="184" data-width="232" height="184" id="rg_hi" src="http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSHBpjVmdpWIEwGbSws1_jUBTngKGePGu7Vdkc1qpykWJAav9fN" style="height: 184px; width: 232px;" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tower of Babel</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></span> <span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> Following these meetings with all three UNDP Access to Justice teams individually, we held a three-day retreat in Erbil with all teams conducted by the Project Coordinator, the international consultant and me. I describe it as being a bit like the Tower of Babel (which, by the way, is supposed to have been in Mesopotamia,</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> now Iraq). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The consultant speaks only Spanish so she had a Spanish-to-Kurdish and Arabic interpreter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I speak only English so I had a Kurdish and Arabic-to-English interpreter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Sulaimaniya and Erbil teams speak the Sorani dialect of Kurdish and the Duhok team speaks the Bedini dialect of Kurdish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both teams speak Arabic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a mini-UN session.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzljD9R5L_oMI3CVj7gAyTezfqNpqMPigp0Wz1OJoimgYtofjX2OvTzIFyI0PFmZpAgXnPP7OgqRzmdeoxLZ1ZEBcdbA9hegWlBm1HLXDyaX0RfXT4U9n-PXa02hUwnekKWcu2Z-lZA6V2/s1600/IMG-20120201-00198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzljD9R5L_oMI3CVj7gAyTezfqNpqMPigp0Wz1OJoimgYtofjX2OvTzIFyI0PFmZpAgXnPP7OgqRzmdeoxLZ1ZEBcdbA9hegWlBm1HLXDyaX0RfXT4U9n-PXa02hUwnekKWcu2Z-lZA6V2/s320/IMG-20120201-00198.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dancing in traditional Kurdish dress.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span></span> <span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">While in Duhok, our administrator there invited us to a pre-wedding party. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of course I jumped at the invitation. The party was held in a big hall and everyone was dancing to VERY loud music – it was so loud that it was impossible to have a conversation so I did the only logical thing which was to join in the dancing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt a little out of place – not only was I the only Westerner there (and as is so often the case, the only blonde) but I was also the only woman who wasn’t dressed to the nines in traditional Kurdish outfits with lots of gold jewelry (when I was in Dubai recently, I was told that brides insist on receiving a gold belt as a wedding present from the groom; that way, if there is a divorce later, she can sell the belt, which you can see from the picture is quite large a heavy, and live off the proceeds--I'm not sure if that's also the case here). </span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="uh_hi" data-height="259" data-width="194" height="259" id="rg_hi" src="http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR3ksbLjR3IrX0zdkZpRwGRXetHgCeLoSYpwp7D08OjXr6m5PPv" style="height: 259px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; width: 194px;" width="194" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hands with henna designs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The bride and groom, along with the bride’s mother, were sitting on ornate chairs on a platform in the front of the hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People would come and pay their respects.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently, the focus of the evening was to decorate the hands of the bride and other women in attendance with ornate henna patterns. I was eager to get my hands done too but regrettably, the volume of the music forced us to leave before that activity began.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m told that the really BIG pre-wedding party was going to be the following night.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jhEEgivV7slKiS2QEPv6Fxuuucmtq-sZb_yvRr_1t_BuJkZAGM22lb8MVof9MdCboQsil4KnoF3lY6bzZiPFneOZj0VdJP4PqYAT2UDjrHb19X_0br2VynDkIAmhDlTyCl9TJX7ErsuK/s1600/IMG-20120201-00197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jhEEgivV7slKiS2QEPv6Fxuuucmtq-sZb_yvRr_1t_BuJkZAGM22lb8MVof9MdCboQsil4KnoF3lY6bzZiPFneOZj0VdJP4PqYAT2UDjrHb19X_0br2VynDkIAmhDlTyCl9TJX7ErsuK/s320/IMG-20120201-00197.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bride's mother, the bride, the groom. <br />
The two men on the right are my friend, Rfa'at (far right) <br />
and his cousin who invited me to the party.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">I was reminded once again that although there are significant differences between the Iraqi people and Americans (or in this case, the British), there are many things that unite us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sitting in the hotel lobby in Erbil one night working, I looked up to see that a hotel employee had turned on the Chelsea-Manchester United football match which was being broadcast live from London’s Stamford Bridge, Chelsea Football Club’s home, which is just a mile or so from my old flat. Chelsea is my team so I started rooting for them as others who were watching backed Man U.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I scoured the shots of the crowd looking for my friend and former partner, Bruce Buck, who is President of Chelsea Football Club. Thanks to him, I was able to attend a number of matches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Regrettably, in this match, though Chelsea was ahead 3-2 with just minutes to go, they gave up goal and had to settle for a tie.</span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1BzoD73RbnEqyEfvhGjumy5GkNjuH89cwzz6MPe5hmzqvBThq4OkZg62miKhxfPhz1N6_8kOdVt5S1wkJY58Mrx7SZSBBlB6-fXNLfxqdLIbBdQmq5XcuZMbu3Qpr8wbtsq4j08HsFVr/s1600/IMG-20120205-00251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1BzoD73RbnEqyEfvhGjumy5GkNjuH89cwzz6MPe5hmzqvBThq4OkZg62miKhxfPhz1N6_8kOdVt5S1wkJY58Mrx7SZSBBlB6-fXNLfxqdLIbBdQmq5XcuZMbu3Qpr8wbtsq4j08HsFVr/s320/IMG-20120205-00251.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chelsea-Man U match</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><br />
</div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-520261282267552762012-01-29T20:35:00.000+03:002012-02-12T18:04:39.804+03:00A New Year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipozo03bK6F9HjkCXERCVqgXsMrqL45_O_teoluC-GKnFWawpoUc_F8eH60-8JA665e3SE7Io2QmDgtMBdGTtNplEml8CHYxlZ2YKG2Hn-pLrB0xuoLPo9appzW_JG4KzI5NilSVEjhgbj/s1600/IMG-20120129-00161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipozo03bK6F9HjkCXERCVqgXsMrqL45_O_teoluC-GKnFWawpoUc_F8eH60-8JA665e3SE7Io2QmDgtMBdGTtNplEml8CHYxlZ2YKG2Hn-pLrB0xuoLPo9appzW_JG4KzI5NilSVEjhgbj/s320/IMG-20120129-00161.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Al Khayat mosque in Erbil is the largest mosque in Iraq and <br />
the main gathering place for the Muslim community in Iraqi Kurdistan.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I'm sitting in my hotel room in Erbil. After the young bellman brought me my luggage and I tried to tip him, he refused to take my tip. He said "you are my people." He told me that he was an interpreter for the US military but now that they have gone he's applied for and expects to get his US visa soon and will be going to Nashville, Tennessee, where there is a large Kurdish population. Many people have asked me how things are now that the US troops have withdrawn from Iraq. The answer is, of course, that Iraq is experiencing almost daily incidents of sectarian violence, killing many innocent people. It is tragic. Kurdistan, however, has not changed. It is no less safe than it was before the withdrawal. The young bellman reflects what I have consistently heard in Kurdistan--admiration and support of America. This is primarily because America brought about the fall of Saddam Hussein, who practiced genocide against Kurds.</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WqGk5pi9J3QRzPEv152mVRvCuu1Uzapl4Gu3XeK9Dy5fMBHY6J6FuJWQ7MR0AE8HadveEIEOG-MDKqcfDckDOczk2aXGMZm3KVxgsnojH6wdJ6RDY9kG6OwkGrmTs8gDeRXUlsL35T_u/s1600/IMG-20120109-00090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WqGk5pi9J3QRzPEv152mVRvCuu1Uzapl4Gu3XeK9Dy5fMBHY6J6FuJWQ7MR0AE8HadveEIEOG-MDKqcfDckDOczk2aXGMZm3KVxgsnojH6wdJ6RDY9kG6OwkGrmTs8gDeRXUlsL35T_u/s320/IMG-20120109-00090.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holiday time in Sulaimaniya</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I know it has been a long time since my last post. Christmas and time at home with family intervened, then returning to Sulaimaniya, I've been really busy as we move into the final three months of the Access to Justice Project. I just finished the December quarterly report and since the Project's inception, the Heartland Alliance A2J teams in Suly and Duhok have provided free legal assistance to more than 3600 people -- people who have attended outreach sessions, received answers to inquiries, had one-on-one legal consultations and been represented by A2J lawyers in their cases. The outreach sessions are particularly effective in reaching large numbers of people, not only in the cities of Duhok and Sulaimaniya but also in districts throughout the Sulaimaniya and Duhok Governorates.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0JNbGuPubhaKGL2vfInrQg63rVElpc6rfnblDrPSKLEFAHMoEWHlk0UP-N22VwQTE41JyrYGM-p28tDK7wWC1qFTTsZsQkz9mDVGsoA4zo-klQCN-76IHleI1Pe6oHEiwB5XVFiE6UBRx/s1600/IMG-20120126-00150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0JNbGuPubhaKGL2vfInrQg63rVElpc6rfnblDrPSKLEFAHMoEWHlk0UP-N22VwQTE41JyrYGM-p28tDK7wWC1qFTTsZsQkz9mDVGsoA4zo-klQCN-76IHleI1Pe6oHEiwB5XVFiE6UBRx/s320/IMG-20120126-00150.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monument to those killed in Halabja</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Last week I went to an outreach session in Halabja. Halabja is the city near the Iranian border where "Chemical Ali", Saddam Hussein's cousin, used chemical weapons on March 16, 1988 in an act of genocide against the Kurds, killing more than 5000 people and injuring thousands more in one day. We met with about 50 women who met in groups and talked about their problems, including poverty, depression, and being forced to wear a hijab or be labeled a "bad woman." We discussed with them the new </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria;">Kurdish Law Against Domestic Violence, which includes a provision against female genital mutilation, a practice which is particularly common in areas of Kurdistan (such as Halabja) where tribal influences are especially strong. And we urged them to continue to meet together, to support each other, because there is strength in numbers. As with almost everyone I've met here, the women were warm and friendly and it was a privilege being with them and listening to them share about the challenges faced by women in this country and in others.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0WDt8kjhHdI2E2o2yTR0u0cnHRsSua_X-ta9IJi1j8sbpsobOtvWVkfxBTTYP8amvyRbhvNkoP6-67T2p-XNWx3msxMX4YKS9kK_1Rib6eHYf6xQfAolgHHulvxRRCS-5akKQX8jtYDm/s1600/IMG-20120126-00125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0WDt8kjhHdI2E2o2yTR0u0cnHRsSua_X-ta9IJi1j8sbpsobOtvWVkfxBTTYP8amvyRbhvNkoP6-67T2p-XNWx3msxMX4YKS9kK_1Rib6eHYf6xQfAolgHHulvxRRCS-5akKQX8jtYDm/s320/IMG-20120126-00125.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With some of the women of Halabja (I'm the only blonde!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; mso-spacerun: yes;">It continues to be cold here and snow is on the mountains outside of Sulaimaniya. The electricity still goes off and on and therefore so does the heat. Each day this weekend it was off about five hours (or on low generator so the heaters don't work). By the time the heat comes back on it's about 13 degrees centigrade in my bedroom (about 56 degrees). But there are signs of spring. When it's sunny during the day it gets quite warm. March will bring the holiday Nawroz, which means "new day" in Kurdish. It is the first day of spring and the first day of the new year. In Kurdish legend, the holiday celebrates the deliverance of the Kurds from a tyrant, and it is seen as another way of demonstrating support for the Kurdish cause. Let us hope that there is never another event like the gassing of Halabja and that all of Iraq may find peace.</span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCXdhnaNnxg0yAke_7eXqEh9L4ok5kVmfp_Ia4l3qeEpHEC5zuANSFGNcD6icFsgSx9Wvh3q-TijIE2TdrQNVe70UZOCt_i1RMVUDsZ3fSDkdcspx4zA8Hexxz8o3RJDgqGK-RAKyuo3Z/s1600/IMG-20120126-00132+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCXdhnaNnxg0yAke_7eXqEh9L4ok5kVmfp_Ia4l3qeEpHEC5zuANSFGNcD6icFsgSx9Wvh3q-TijIE2TdrQNVe70UZOCt_i1RMVUDsZ3fSDkdcspx4zA8Hexxz8o3RJDgqGK-RAKyuo3Z/s320/IMG-20120126-00132+(1).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue outside of Halabja memorial depicting <br />
a father trying to shield his child from the lethal gas <br />
(he was unsuccessful and they both died).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuD4DjwwTN9E5rjKiTBZDdU-TjBXg8zFyBDXKuxgbqPJ3LI4o7zUjiD1IRaPKSVOOHOtO8cklY9WxCxIAF538kFsQ_riOjEnIGmQztT4RY19qCA_JYZxEWftczp_vs7I61GQRO_N6kKJ-/s1600/IMG-20120126-00147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuD4DjwwTN9E5rjKiTBZDdU-TjBXg8zFyBDXKuxgbqPJ3LI4o7zUjiD1IRaPKSVOOHOtO8cklY9WxCxIAF538kFsQ_riOjEnIGmQztT4RY19qCA_JYZxEWftczp_vs7I61GQRO_N6kKJ-/s320/IMG-20120126-00147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
A photograph of the same event. </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-27172877553090248282011-12-01T11:24:00.000+03:002011-12-01T11:24:58.122+03:00Winter Comes to Kurdistan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyzVQObEeAiURsaw_0LK3TQ_n0SMp4Olzb4Uhs4PhBewJpNCsJPsYuu8Hbs-teg_5-RJ-wWHtmmW0OaGWiQLNP38bPhMCMLG4giZaKWU-l0aQI_8pzCWs5GtRRlD_3rzVvukH6Ju94SNf/s1600/IMG-20111112-00012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyzVQObEeAiURsaw_0LK3TQ_n0SMp4Olzb4Uhs4PhBewJpNCsJPsYuu8Hbs-teg_5-RJ-wWHtmmW0OaGWiQLNP38bPhMCMLG4giZaKWU-l0aQI_8pzCWs5GtRRlD_3rzVvukH6Ju94SNf/s320/IMG-20111112-00012.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim and my parents in Paris (Notre Dame Cathedral in the background)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">You never know what you'll see in Suly! Walking to work this morning I encountered two sheep grazing by the side of a very busy road -- a sight I'd not seen in the city (though many times in the countryside). However, they looked warm in their fluffy coats, which is more than I can say for us. The reason I haven't posted a new story for so long is because Jim and I spent a few weeks in Paris for time with family and R&R (though I had lots of work to do while I was there, which has been typical throughout my career) and I had lots of things to catch up on when I came home to Kurdistan. When we returned, we soon discovered that it was cold! I mean, in the 30's at night, 40's during the day and it's supposed to get colder still in the coming months. Who knew when I was moaning about the heat this summer that I would long for it come November? </div><div align="center" style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbKxGINEbMHCEIkjoaj8aqz61juFSAgL3DX03Qi6D0whFgCrptt8hZd-Ig48lpqWc4uJEPla5n73ex56bZOXDrRVcC6F8Pj1JkGuRToBLC1xyr2AotdZutEostfQfJDpMRN_HpG80Gzo3/s1600/IMG-20111201-00057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbKxGINEbMHCEIkjoaj8aqz61juFSAgL3DX03Qi6D0whFgCrptt8hZd-Ig48lpqWc4uJEPla5n73ex56bZOXDrRVcC6F8Pj1JkGuRToBLC1xyr2AotdZutEostfQfJDpMRN_HpG80Gzo3/s1600/IMG-20111201-00057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUbKxGINEbMHCEIkjoaj8aqz61juFSAgL3DX03Qi6D0whFgCrptt8hZd-Ig48lpqWc4uJEPla5n73ex56bZOXDrRVcC6F8Pj1JkGuRToBLC1xyr2AotdZutEostfQfJDpMRN_HpG80Gzo3/s320/IMG-20111201-00057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">But Iraq as ever is a country of contrasts -- snow on the mountains and leafless trees on the one hand, orange trees outside my office on the other.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlqGaqq-9052b5hoTf81i3Xqu2DlPjlx8lcLiaa0v2Zws4AjmZ7JdBKufFYm2BVT4DXVouaqPPoyOOjTeewb8nbrrwy_2ZhfCRkAEKS1J1H45wL_tL744R2ZrnB1Tap-ISyIvXeJ5cW10/s1600/IMG-20111127-00050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlqGaqq-9052b5hoTf81i3Xqu2DlPjlx8lcLiaa0v2Zws4AjmZ7JdBKufFYm2BVT4DXVouaqPPoyOOjTeewb8nbrrwy_2ZhfCRkAEKS1J1H45wL_tL744R2ZrnB1Tap-ISyIvXeJ5cW10/s320/IMG-20111127-00050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I'm from Chicago so I'm used to the cold (I must confess, however, I probably didn't bring enough cold weather gear with me when I moved here but that can be rectified when I go back to the US for Christmas). But I'm not used to it being so cold inside. Just as the electricity went on and off during the summer, the situation is even worse in the winter with all the heaters on throughout the city. In fact, there are scheduled outages. On top of that, our friend Ahmed told us that our house has only enough electrical amps to support one heater at a time, so we've been bundled up inside and spending most of our time in the living room where we have the heater on -- eating, sleeping, working and relaxing there. To keep warm (and because he is hair-challenged, i.e., bald), Jim has been wearing his black hoodie, even while sleeping. For me, it's been a bit like lying next to the grim reaper. But as with so many things, this is just part of the experience of living here -- something I wouldn't give up for all the ampage in the world.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXdc7NDpKO6RE4azKBADSMKo8WDt-F6wap7AciovhPrGXjf_WrbNU7fj5aowg8nb7brbhscIYRB19Xq7X-QGF0MtACGOGG3Hk9CWYA7UWrdHAqPyFHTCskmShCw0rYpELRJJfOQu2wvkL/s1600/IMG-20111127-00029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXdc7NDpKO6RE4azKBADSMKo8WDt-F6wap7AciovhPrGXjf_WrbNU7fj5aowg8nb7brbhscIYRB19Xq7X-QGF0MtACGOGG3Hk9CWYA7UWrdHAqPyFHTCskmShCw0rYpELRJJfOQu2wvkL/s320/IMG-20111127-00029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim bundled up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;">We will soon be moving to a different house that hopefully will have better utilities, but it has a much smaller yard. So a big question is what to do with our five chickens? I hate to say it but they are like house pets, particularly one -- named Justin -- who was raised from a baby chick; and frankly, that's about all they are good for because as far as we can tell, they haven't laid a single egg. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRKnSEwAgMTCN9bbiwDLKji8emDhbrWgHna_lBfJSeAunLOyJoqFT4CTMQjYA8nHhWSoLbNyEmsOU7kRoWMHBKBri6qG-PknTG-hAR8KZUdDWVOA2Aofjn0TS3TwuM282muXrFAM9wk4b/s1600/IMG-20111127-00049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRKnSEwAgMTCN9bbiwDLKji8emDhbrWgHna_lBfJSeAunLOyJoqFT4CTMQjYA8nHhWSoLbNyEmsOU7kRoWMHBKBri6qG-PknTG-hAR8KZUdDWVOA2Aofjn0TS3TwuM282muXrFAM9wk4b/s320/IMG-20111127-00049.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Justin outside the kitchen window.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;">When we wake up in the morning, Justin is standing on the window sill outside the kitchen looking for activity in the house which means breakfast. The other chickens are gathered on the step squawking until they are fed. There is divided opinion among the housemates about whether they move with us. Some believe that they should be given away as pets or a future dinner (horrors!); others want to take them along to the new digs. None of us are quite sure what they do in the winter to keep warm (and we are not providing them little heaters!).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE5T8wAwUb3v7tfp-oo8KU2QcTqwyNGoXX5y2idcigpoRpwJeaS_UA9SLwE0v-n9pz2FxfVKrfhLH13AV3riogJipcEAbJpFF_lIzXFUEPNFuAYctEkTy4Nlg1biQ97Eqg6ThN2HKqkdMo/s1600/IMG-20111127-00040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE5T8wAwUb3v7tfp-oo8KU2QcTqwyNGoXX5y2idcigpoRpwJeaS_UA9SLwE0v-n9pz2FxfVKrfhLH13AV3riogJipcEAbJpFF_lIzXFUEPNFuAYctEkTy4Nlg1biQ97Eqg6ThN2HKqkdMo/s320/IMG-20111127-00040.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is breakfast ready yet?</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;">As I mentioned, I've seen sheep in the Kurdish countryside many times. Most recently, driving to and from Erbil earlier this week, I noticed that there has been much development in that city even in the relatively short time I've been here (a little more than six months). However, again reflecting that this is a region that is in the midst of transformation, I saw a shepherd with his flock of sheep on a hillside just below a new development of luxury modern homes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDyoHnNE5Op4j3XujqFLJq2PV6Fe4SWnLfGWApP5pZBCxpxXrCRH19mXWGBWTTAIVWD57iS6_2Y6DueKeuw0XLz9ue4tjUY6QfNE6XfHGIbo5KuI2mPn-L1hZyPQUptkGsifd-fvCGsNN/s1600/IMG-20111128-00052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixDyoHnNE5Op4j3XujqFLJq2PV6Fe4SWnLfGWApP5pZBCxpxXrCRH19mXWGBWTTAIVWD57iS6_2Y6DueKeuw0XLz9ue4tjUY6QfNE6XfHGIbo5KuI2mPn-L1hZyPQUptkGsifd-fvCGsNN/s320/IMG-20111128-00052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The reason I was in Erbil was to participate in a two-day UNDP workshop in Erbil reviewing draft chapters written for the Civil Law and Criminal Law Manuals that are part of the Access to Justice Project. The workshop was attended by representatives of UNDP, the European Union, UNHCR, WEO, other NGOs, legal academicians, the Kurdistan Lawyers Syndicate and other members of the legal profession. The manuals are intended to be a resource for Iraqi lawyers wishing to do the very important work of representing those who cannot afford counsel. Long after international NGOs, such as Heartland Alliance, as well as the UN and others are gone, it is critical that the access to justice legal aid work being done be sustained, and in order to do that it is necessary to build capacity among local lawyers, organizations and other nationals. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Legal services for all is central to the rule of law, which is itself critical to the democratic and economic development of any country. The new Iraqi constitution provides that "Every individual has the right to enjoy life, security and liberty. Deprivation or restriction of these rights is prohibited ...." However, without lawyers and organizations willing to provide legal aid services, particularly to the most vulnerable, these constitutional protections will remain hollow guarantees. The purpose of the manuals developed as part of the Access to Justice Project---and in fact all capacity-building activities being undertaken -- is to provide guidance to those wishing to engage in legal aid activities in order to help meet this essential need. Fortunately, there are many here who want to do just that.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8F6pYAu4TSdyGOWDUygrrKsetinAjjWj2S6sWMC49aGEUWvCRM-VHZ_at_aNVlbuQ1-JhDvlKe81xCPQLIRZoYPRbqUqvcIdjjvdJHG8bVdfE1s8wR9GnEq9ViMxKzKd13xOSkoKpQBA/s1600/IMG-20111121-00025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI8F6pYAu4TSdyGOWDUygrrKsetinAjjWj2S6sWMC49aGEUWvCRM-VHZ_at_aNVlbuQ1-JhDvlKe81xCPQLIRZoYPRbqUqvcIdjjvdJHG8bVdfE1s8wR9GnEq9ViMxKzKd13xOSkoKpQBA/s320/IMG-20111121-00025.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My son, Christian, and his wife, Daisy, under the Eiffel Tower in Paris.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="direction: ltr; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt; text-justify: inter-ideograph; unicode-bidi: embed;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-5151549858602892122011-10-22T21:23:00.000+03:002011-10-22T21:46:58.352+03:00Autumn in Kurdistan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnQFdj6M54imaqRi2_3jLgLSRZ6N2C65CEVayR91QFbFpNV9rguE0cE79fV_Ek6rALtG39ZS9Jc4hyphenhyphenv2Qqw8JlwFbLT2D3-2T8fueusqXduola7UfQ3hBj868czHgMb2HTDr2WpQ7D0_Vp/s1600/photo%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnQFdj6M54imaqRi2_3jLgLSRZ6N2C65CEVayR91QFbFpNV9rguE0cE79fV_Ek6rALtG39ZS9Jc4hyphenhyphenv2Qqw8JlwFbLT2D3-2T8fueusqXduola7UfQ3hBj868czHgMb2HTDr2WpQ7D0_Vp/s1600/photo%25281%2529.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Barista Coffee shop</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I was sitting in a coffee shop in Erbil called “Barista” earlier this week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Erbil is the capital of Kurdistan and so it is the home to many expats who work in consulates, the UN, various NGOs and other places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a result, there are many establishments catering to Western sensibilities – no Starbucks yet but Barista is a Starbucks wanna-be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition to espresso drinks, it sells doughnuts, bagel sandwiches and other goodies that look remarkably similar to those in my neighborhood Starbucks back in the US.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only difference is that many people sitting in the coffee shop spoke Kurdish – though I also heard English and American accents as well – and almost everyone smoked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> That morning, o</span>ne of my colleagues was attending meetings with UNICEF and a local NGO, another was catching up on her sleep (most people when they travel sleep less well; she sleeps better because when she’s home her two daughters get into bed with her and disrupt her sleep) and I was catching up on emails because Barista has wireless.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gY4oOg-bjXdgisBkWIf6dbrbtLtqVH0vKJgQFVxNKU86serQUxi6HG1MhsXhNaivbq1foDxlb8lyxuNsDJE-_HEmrxjMxxuaVAs8JXgGxk4L6RW0POj2cjNowD7tYEfEfTIGJBnQSrjl/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gY4oOg-bjXdgisBkWIf6dbrbtLtqVH0vKJgQFVxNKU86serQUxi6HG1MhsXhNaivbq1foDxlb8lyxuNsDJE-_HEmrxjMxxuaVAs8JXgGxk4L6RW0POj2cjNowD7tYEfEfTIGJBnQSrjl/s320/photo.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Enjoying a latte</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> had spent the prior two days in Duhok and Erbil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Erbil, my program coordinator and I met with the Dean of the College of Law and Politics of Salahaddin University.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> As a general rule, there is no tradition of legal aid services in Iraq even though there is a great need (as there is in almost every country, including the United States). That is one of the reasons why Heartland Alliance's work is so important. However, it is critical that capacity be built among Iraqi lawyers and organizations to do this work in order to build and sustain it, and </span>I’ve become convinced that to inculcate lawyers with what is a Western notion, namely that the profession has an ethical responsibility to provide <em>pro bono</em> services, it must start early, i.e., in law school. Salahaddin College of Law has a new Human Rights Center and recently, a legal clinic, and it was interesting exchanging ideas on the state of human rights in Kurdistan and other issues. As the dean said, though not at the level of European countries, given the turmoil over the last decades, particularly under Saddam Hussein, it's much better than it has been.</span></span> </span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKc-Gx4ugj2dfxEk1nMb-zpZH6ockcnqZ-FOxJTF05n4ssLPWM6chBcWq9qREhB5oxIBP8nnj6G2pyTKbNt3Gyay2iyPXHwgwsNZv2YZ9MPljZ08k5NPPN5kx9UNZERURrcJHAlGO0z21F/s1600/IMG00615-20111017-0911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKc-Gx4ugj2dfxEk1nMb-zpZH6ockcnqZ-FOxJTF05n4ssLPWM6chBcWq9qREhB5oxIBP8nnj6G2pyTKbNt3Gyay2iyPXHwgwsNZv2YZ9MPljZ08k5NPPN5kx9UNZERURrcJHAlGO0z21F/s320/IMG00615-20111017-0911.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Lake outside of Duhok</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In Duhok, the A2J team had its first meeting with our Legal Advisory Committee, which is made up of three judges, four professors and the president of the Duhok Bar Association. Although most of the members saw the need for legal aid work (in fact, the President of the Appeals Court urged us to have written materials so others can learn how to do the work, which in fact is part of the Access to Justice Project -- development of a Criminal Law Manual, a Civil Law Manual and a Manual of Procedures), unfortunately some members of the bar do not think <em>pro bono </em>work by lawyers is necessary. This is discouraging because although our Project has reached over 1200 people in less than five months, there are hundreds more who have little knowledge about their legal rights or ability to access the justice system. But just when I'm feeling discouraged, I meet someone as I did this week who works in the office next to ours in Duhok. He told me that the work being done is so important, that free legal services are needed because lawyers charge so much and people can't afford to pay the fees (a problem encountered in many places, including the United States).</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNB0aoFoYDiZnf94KCLbAYZPtIcwVoMQbKFfTgsexdI4Y-lmgpBab5zvFjbwWLQUHFyaUZwC26cme3eDvX1uv1FN0OfJKaIEb06cKA2nICufzqZIUmHgH3A1hio0KFbseibDSL0cFkG_I/s1600/IMG-20111021-00183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNB0aoFoYDiZnf94KCLbAYZPtIcwVoMQbKFfTgsexdI4Y-lmgpBab5zvFjbwWLQUHFyaUZwC26cme3eDvX1uv1FN0OfJKaIEb06cKA2nICufzqZIUmHgH3A1hio0KFbseibDSL0cFkG_I/s320/IMG-20111021-00183.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Pomegranates</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">On a juicier note (ok, bad pun), it's pomegranate season here and they are wonderful! We have several pomegranate trees in our yard but so far they have not yet ripened. Luckily there are LOTS for sale in the bazaar, at roadside stands and in grocery stores. And it's autumn here as well. We're having beautiful cool days and cooler evenings (low to mid 70's at the peak of the day, 50's at night) -- actually sweater weather --and I'm told it will get really cold soon......</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFnPFHJ3GqNMXF19XZv7fSPVcr8dnp0flD8QXBgygiwZsZF9CM6T9k4FY34WZ5F0i3jl0KDpL80jm-k2aA2pUGDzNLHIhm4iss0LWH7sHfaiEC3PomsFiAB9CNFloSOUVHyz6qIk-3AF6/s1600/_MG_5974+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFnPFHJ3GqNMXF19XZv7fSPVcr8dnp0flD8QXBgygiwZsZF9CM6T9k4FY34WZ5F0i3jl0KDpL80jm-k2aA2pUGDzNLHIhm4iss0LWH7sHfaiEC3PomsFiAB9CNFloSOUVHyz6qIk-3AF6/s320/_MG_5974+-+Version+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Antarctica</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">............ok, maybe not this cold but who knows?</span><br />
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</div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-82921340402138469692011-10-07T21:17:00.000+03:002011-10-09T12:25:25.472+03:00Reaching Out<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh5T67p_aZEpL-g7vR-wWG4b3nZSffo2YrEiznyh7TAuagatbq-Cb0SwG4RuvLreHuMia6yWcgxktVHsy0Ss9x5yhVtN86AlqHiygL8mCci8TqNwrvwPe6KCuoX7s2arLSFBSpJBp8squ3/s1600/more+art+in+suly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh5T67p_aZEpL-g7vR-wWG4b3nZSffo2YrEiznyh7TAuagatbq-Cb0SwG4RuvLreHuMia6yWcgxktVHsy0Ss9x5yhVtN86AlqHiygL8mCci8TqNwrvwPe6KCuoX7s2arLSFBSpJBp8squ3/s320/more+art+in+suly.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Art in Sulaimaniya</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I think I've mentioned before that one aspect of Heartland Alliance's Access to Justice Project is outreach. There are a number of outreach projects: <em>Know Your Rights</em> brochures and pamphlets for distribution, radio and TV public service announcements and newspaper coverage. However, the most important outreach activity are the Mobile Legal Clinic outreach sessions which allow us to reach dozens of people at a time. The Mobile Legal Clinics -- one each in the Governorates of Duhok and Sulaimaniya -- visit organizations, schools, jails, women's shelters, reformatories and other places where there are persons who may be in vulnerable situations. During these outreach sessions, our lawyers and social workers may make a presentation on a topic of interest, answer questions about legal and other rights, and/or have one-on-one consultations. In addition to visits in the cities of Sulaimaniya and Duhok, the Mobile Legal Clinics also go into rural and other areas in the governorates where arguably the need is the greatest, because it is in these areas where tribal law or other informal means of "justice" may often operate in ways which deprive vulnerable Iraqis, particularly women, of access to true justice.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0ZG1Y7-ZcjkJf2_IoklZpB9bKlCwu0Sivc6mB4PAi_DaCe7Cc4X-sX0wfur9Q1GjDKz_zISnzVh5THYN6emKwN2Y___4wcCp-cnNabqIAh7g21eYyuv3Wn-nGaCw06rwaeqtORBbtA1X/s1600/IMG00567-20110927-1356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0ZG1Y7-ZcjkJf2_IoklZpB9bKlCwu0Sivc6mB4PAi_DaCe7Cc4X-sX0wfur9Q1GjDKz_zISnzVh5THYN6emKwN2Y___4wcCp-cnNabqIAh7g21eYyuv3Wn-nGaCw06rwaeqtORBbtA1X/s320/IMG00567-20110927-1356.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">In the women's workshop at the Kurdistan Disabled Persons Union</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALJePzI2WlzkX63NN0Watn-t5MbWXh56FULlfJefUdds8B62xDkbMNE5RX038x8Yo0alJFv_YdjPGsO-JOgLjqD9kPe5qAl-2eclTJEQCPUvtuevvVaTWiIodLSjYfohTNHg9P_-yOURq/s1600/IMG00569-20110927-1403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALJePzI2WlzkX63NN0Watn-t5MbWXh56FULlfJefUdds8B62xDkbMNE5RX038x8Yo0alJFv_YdjPGsO-JOgLjqD9kPe5qAl-2eclTJEQCPUvtuevvVaTWiIodLSjYfohTNHg9P_-yOURq/s320/IMG00569-20110927-1403.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">With my gift from the women</span> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Recently I was able to attend one of the Mobile Legal Clinic outreach visits at the Kurdistan Disabled Persons Union in Sulaimaniya, where I was the recipient of such gracious hospitality. After spending time with Kak Omer, the Union's president, who is wonderful -- informative and welcoming (which has been my near universal experience with the Kurdish people), I toured the shop where women members are making handicrafts to sell (and I was able to pick up a holiday gift or two). Kak Omer had asked the lawyers to give a simple-to understand summary of legislation which protects the rights of the disabled. After their presentation and questions, one-on-one consultations were available.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvFuaPfQ4HC3yNCAreN1TprzCxRd2DZrZBeU3UjVhRH9e-tCd0NDWSRh9rQCI2Y-CxEOP1J1FoDYS9OSUAPJlLIfvEoncfI5b7s331-xGlzOnVXXQee_sd-bkASSszINByt-F4Tu50Ko9/s1600/IMG00571-20110927-1416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLvFuaPfQ4HC3yNCAreN1TprzCxRd2DZrZBeU3UjVhRH9e-tCd0NDWSRh9rQCI2Y-CxEOP1J1FoDYS9OSUAPJlLIfvEoncfI5b7s331-xGlzOnVXXQee_sd-bkASSszINByt-F4Tu50Ko9/s320/IMG00571-20110927-1416.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Outreach at the Kurdistan Disabled Persons Union</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-bidi;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Although many members of the Union have congenital disabilities, I was told that the majority of members are physically disabled as a result of mines and bombs. After I asked what conflict the mines and bombs were from, I realized that the Kurdish people have lived with violence in their lives for decades. In the 70's it was the Kurdish revolution for independence; in the 80's it was the war with Iran and the Anfal; in the 90's it was the first Gulf War and the Kurdish civil war; and in the 00's it was the US invasion against Saddam Hussein. One of my Heartland colleagues recently said "we are the generation of war." In a future blog post I'm going to explore what that means but the impact of decades of violence has had significant effects, both physical and emotional.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcPmvHF4ZrL0ZOLy1w5VC2cOg6M0AB-CVMfr7FTOukthA7OLE7Sm5Pmr75py0hg0ETcZXkbQv3-zplezWvt_LcS1Ozrxs0V4yZJ4kYD2arA36evVYsmBe7XJJmucVN2N_KV3CwED_EqmzK/s1600/IMG00588-20110927-1512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcPmvHF4ZrL0ZOLy1w5VC2cOg6M0AB-CVMfr7FTOukthA7OLE7Sm5Pmr75py0hg0ETcZXkbQv3-zplezWvt_LcS1Ozrxs0V4yZJ4kYD2arA36evVYsmBe7XJJmucVN2N_KV3CwED_EqmzK/s320/IMG00588-20110927-1512.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">With Kak Omer, President of the Kurdistan Disabled Persons Union</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">On a less somber note, one of the things I've notice about living here is that there are more birds and butterflies than in previous cities I have lived. Because of pollution, loss of habitat and other modern incursions, I found that butterflies and birds (other than pigeons and crows) are often rare in the US and the UK, even in parks and gardens. It's lovely waking up to a songbird's trill and catching a glimpse of a brightly colored butterfly in a land that has experienced such tragedy.</span></div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-59823734981102392372011-09-11T11:50:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:23:56.622+03:00Weekends in Kurdistan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlA88LO_rPtl5zmWZV_x2G6WoDJEKjPPRZQrQq_Xtk67ainir4uwvkKt-LfY9zdm9uxDltvCcX1CPNgvADucXA7wO7YIhSgq0alJfewqgGXhFnvmNuhPCed86rrTQWrBIIOcFZD5O1UUpH/s1600/IMG00495-20110909-1355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlA88LO_rPtl5zmWZV_x2G6WoDJEKjPPRZQrQq_Xtk67ainir4uwvkKt-LfY9zdm9uxDltvCcX1CPNgvADucXA7wO7YIhSgq0alJfewqgGXhFnvmNuhPCed86rrTQWrBIIOcFZD5O1UUpH/s320/IMG00495-20110909-1355.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">With Muhamad and Omer</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of the things that people in Northern Iraq love to do on weekends is to have picnics. It's a time to be together with family and friends, to enjoy food, dancing, music and the cooler climate outside of the city. Jim and I were treated to this experience on Friday, and what a lovely and remarkable day it was.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jim has made friends with two men, Muhamad and Omer, helping them perfect their English skills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During Ramadan they took their “coach” and me to a lovely “iftar” dinner (the meal that breaks the fast) and this weekend they took us into the Kurdish countryside for a typical weekend picnic.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwc8onz_0CJM3zVKPK07lLCMueFH9SWGHbE52qDFwSA08mKhsKcUS550BQOT3FbyMSKIh_i_D5Hyzr0ragEi3a3KqhZfFSy8F9ul8xaeLo4-jyp4oJNMrI41FrtKnKY_YJY8gptw_RMMj2/s1600/IMG00493-20110909-1334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwc8onz_0CJM3zVKPK07lLCMueFH9SWGHbE52qDFwSA08mKhsKcUS550BQOT3FbyMSKIh_i_D5Hyzr0ragEi3a3KqhZfFSy8F9ul8xaeLo4-jyp4oJNMrI41FrtKnKY_YJY8gptw_RMMj2/s320/IMG00493-20110909-1334.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Muhamad, Jim and Omer unpacking the picnic</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> <span style="font-size: small;">We were picked up in the afternoon and drove about a half hour or so into the mountains outside of Sulaimaniyah to a park where there were hundreds of Kurds, as well as Arabs who drove up from the south to enjoy the cool weather. <span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Like them, Omer and Muhamad had brought a picnic that was absolutely delicious – chicken, dolma (grape leaves, eggplant, tomatoes, onions and peppers stuffed with a marvelous rice mixture), bread, greens and a plate with cucumbers, diced apple, carrots, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped on the way for fruit and I brought a thermos of iced tea (although Kurds LOVE their hot chai – very sweet – this cold tea was something new to them).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-size: small;">Omer’s mother and sister had put the feast together and it was enough for about 12 people (Jim and I were the grateful recipients of the leftovers which will serve as several great lunches and dinners).</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Dh3L-1uJO_VDRox-9scRIavmBPhmOY45vYmfxzj-h1pjvuPuPM5Zrr6zAwZdWWhPTCILzRfEB4P_FmQrlcCIZIdBkXaAP6JRDoPmfaEqTt1KQbuV_GfRCwRqTbOF5yINw9_PafklVQ35/s1600/IMG00511-20110909-1436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Dh3L-1uJO_VDRox-9scRIavmBPhmOY45vYmfxzj-h1pjvuPuPM5Zrr6zAwZdWWhPTCILzRfEB4P_FmQrlcCIZIdBkXaAP6JRDoPmfaEqTt1KQbuV_GfRCwRqTbOF5yINw9_PafklVQ35/s320/IMG00511-20110909-1436.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Enjoying chai</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After eating our picnic, we walked around the park gazing at the scenery that was very reminiscent of the American Southwest (spectacular mountains, cliffs, trees and a waterfall), watching people dance in the typical Kurdish style, listened to the accompanying music and enjoying<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>observing families take donkey and horse rides and just relaxing together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We then left the park, drove a short distance, parked the car near a river and started climbing to the caves which dotted the mountainside.</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEier1dz4KYEhzQuYm3K1hwh2jMl2uElK_kDJ-DctfZRSlocffDnQDls2ggh3l0PnL4BF7NBDouJtK4qci6yVMnuvb6DbmZ6MGGsJ3tT1Ofv6-cmbEdUixuzF0Eqk-E-W-I_rGx6hLi9L9zj/s1600/IMG00522-20110909-1517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEier1dz4KYEhzQuYm3K1hwh2jMl2uElK_kDJ-DctfZRSlocffDnQDls2ggh3l0PnL4BF7NBDouJtK4qci6yVMnuvb6DbmZ6MGGsJ3tT1Ofv6-cmbEdUixuzF0Eqk-E-W-I_rGx6hLi9L9zj/s320/IMG00522-20110909-1517.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Hiking in the mountains</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">As we were making our way up the mountain toward the caves, w</span>e met three men who also had been climbing, one of whom was a former Peshmerga. During the time of the Anfal he had lived in similar caves in Qaradakh, another mountainous region outside of Suly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Peshmerga means “those who face death” in Kurdish and they are the fierce Kurdish guerrilla fighters who, among other things, helped defeat Saddam Hussein’s army in 2003.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prior to that, they also fought with US and NATO troops during the first Gulf War in 1991.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZjSL9IJP1B6vbLytqyWQFf-IQbBrXlnug8SI8JAyxMJfeRxUIy2p_gkIGQMyaeuHpLHXKIL6J4owSTl_sU2LcXyXjQTNm-Kjq6AvWnG7H1FwhiVhGHFRVOUQHNqA7_O_v5wJ_0YsLsrnQ/s1600/shikeftenKurdistane_37827832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZjSL9IJP1B6vbLytqyWQFf-IQbBrXlnug8SI8JAyxMJfeRxUIy2p_gkIGQMyaeuHpLHXKIL6J4owSTl_sU2LcXyXjQTNm-Kjq6AvWnG7H1FwhiVhGHFRVOUQHNqA7_O_v5wJ_0YsLsrnQ/s320/shikeftenKurdistane_37827832.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Peshmerga in the mountains during the Anfal</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Anfal, which occurred in 1988-89, refers to the period when Hussein launched a mass genocide against Iraqi Kurds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were forced to flee their villages, some of which —the most famous being Halabja -- were the targets of chemical warfare; in all, about 4500 villages were destroyed and 182,000 Kurdish killed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Peshmerga took to the mountains, living in caves, in an attempt to defend their villages to the extent they could.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPD_AuhA_FHimeBRGhGpDMVHZxhmoGBy2kKKvunJJeK-TLr4sQPX2BNeIop2tqWrr0CwS5icUztAzpv3ny78oOLakQLDYFKBGhFTnCWGDXUmaReCKwhGiD0O7Hj8jc0jLJ7RNNV8ZdQEK9/s1600/IMG00523-20110909-1519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPD_AuhA_FHimeBRGhGpDMVHZxhmoGBy2kKKvunJJeK-TLr4sQPX2BNeIop2tqWrr0CwS5icUztAzpv3ny78oOLakQLDYFKBGhFTnCWGDXUmaReCKwhGiD0O7Hj8jc0jLJ7RNNV8ZdQEK9/s320/IMG00523-20110909-1519.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Our Peshmerga guide</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our Peshmerga guide, who had two Peshmerga brothers killed during the Anfal by Hussein’s army, took us inside the caves, the largest of which was occupied by Jallal Talibani (the current Iraqi president, head of the PUK party and Kurdish hero) and his men. He showed us where weapons were hid, food cooked, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a remarkable experience seeing this dark chapter in Iraqi history through his eyes.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span></div><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfCo1zFeUFzjrpZUbktqNKR3k2liPm2gpVAPvNTuy92-aHSFCcH9EDH5TYhd-2YR9jbYO2qwmllg89i5P7ohqQAvAQuFYL1CF_1PXHqymqUKuzBSC7WbXVDE_nBZWyQMehAeauvrP932v/s1600/IMG00537-20110909-1552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfCo1zFeUFzjrpZUbktqNKR3k2liPm2gpVAPvNTuy92-aHSFCcH9EDH5TYhd-2YR9jbYO2qwmllg89i5P7ohqQAvAQuFYL1CF_1PXHqymqUKuzBSC7WbXVDE_nBZWyQMehAeauvrP932v/s320/IMG00537-20110909-1552.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Wedding dance</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">As it turns out, one of our guides was a relative of Muhamad and after our tour of the caves, we accompanied them to a wedding celebration that was taking place in the valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hundreds of traditionally dressed men in sharwal and women in diaphanous brightly colored gowns covered in sequins and gold were in attendance. Many were dancing in the typical Kurdish style -- a type of line dance similar to the hora -- and they pulled me into the circle of dancers and welcomed me as if I were a relative or neighbour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After several pictures, smiles and hugs, we said good bye and went to our final stop – a 6000 year old cave carved by an ancient people into the mountain in the style of Petra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a remarkable place to watch the sun set and the almost full moon rise over the mountains.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPkkfGkbxhitM1eLm1dhKYan399ljVi3zEZxCJlxkJ-wjEpScaCTayoGAPXueoBsDZC65SXXi9r1QfeMcrUvvLI-qpzbKGaEp2Ox_7TWlXWVmCnGQvnpjJJC-UjpwnPeDCqaMLS2el7vO/s1600/IMG00551-20110909-1627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPkkfGkbxhitM1eLm1dhKYan399ljVi3zEZxCJlxkJ-wjEpScaCTayoGAPXueoBsDZC65SXXi9r1QfeMcrUvvLI-qpzbKGaEp2Ox_7TWlXWVmCnGQvnpjJJC-UjpwnPeDCqaMLS2el7vO/s320/IMG00551-20110909-1627.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Qezqapan (or Qizkapan) Cave</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of the things I will always remember about my experience here in Iraq is the friendliness, warmth and generosity of the people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notwithstanding the suffering and hardship they have endured during the Anfal, their own civil war, two gulf wars and the current post-war conflict, they remain resilient as well as resigned to both their tumultuous past and to an uncertain future which may bring positive changes but which may also destroy some of their traditional ways of life.<u style="text-underline: words;"><o:p></o:p></u></span></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUMsGZPHPoPKKgyhPRVC8tzE1-fQOO9u5__YnSQAlqOchFnDwQYmYowRYhC_ravs_fIiWpscX2Rr85QtSSdON0sPktuhauIImLY738r47fTKUA_ZgUIfvX45UxxDrGsYT09MHAhOOS6l-H/s1600/IMG00543-20110909-1559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUMsGZPHPoPKKgyhPRVC8tzE1-fQOO9u5__YnSQAlqOchFnDwQYmYowRYhC_ravs_fIiWpscX2Rr85QtSSdON0sPktuhauIImLY738r47fTKUA_ZgUIfvX45UxxDrGsYT09MHAhOOS6l-H/s320/IMG00543-20110909-1559.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">New friends</span></div></td></tr>
<div align="justify"> </div></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> <span style="font-size: small;">On a sadder note, today is the tenth anniversary of 9/11. There are certain days one never forgets -- the day Kennedy was shot (I know I'm dating myself), the day the spaceship Challenger blew up and more recently, 9/11. My thoughts are with friends and family in America and my hope is that some day there will be peace around the world so that events like the Anfal, 9/11, the holocaust and all acts of violence which cause people to live in fear and destroy innocent lives cease forever.</span></span></div></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-16673628855010424272011-08-26T13:19:00.000+03:002011-10-21T12:29:26.134+03:00Justice<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9O6dX8zhbopc5kw174W_43O8qotfdW0AWNqk_M8TAJujsFNuFP8n34WpnoyOPrUu8TvYKenFBEOvyycB6R4AkBPI5cRxsJx-uCOjurtq202jMBhE9Qj-GMNGhvM7kusqhRMgGZeXGGxv8/s1600/IMG00396-20110813-1656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9O6dX8zhbopc5kw174W_43O8qotfdW0AWNqk_M8TAJujsFNuFP8n34WpnoyOPrUu8TvYKenFBEOvyycB6R4AkBPI5cRxsJx-uCOjurtq202jMBhE9Qj-GMNGhvM7kusqhRMgGZeXGGxv8/s320/IMG00396-20110813-1656.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moonrise over Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">It's been almost three months since I arrived in Sulaymaniyah and started working with Heartland Alliance for Human Needs & Human Rights. Our Legal Help Desks in Suly and in Duhok have seen almost 700 people, conducted more than 200 legal consultations and have served, or are serving, as counsel in more than 50 cases. It's been fascinating -- and often frustrating -- for me as an American lawyer to see what the laws and legal obstacles are in Iraq as well as what similarities are shared by both countries. <br />
<br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">First, the definition of what constitutes a successful outcome may be different. I asked our lawyers to tell me about some of their successful cases. When I read these "success stories," a number of them involved divorce cases in which they were able to reunite a wife and husband, even though the marriage may have involved abuse. I found this definition of success contradictory to what might be thought of as success in a similar situation in the US where the challenge is so often taking a woman out of an abusive situation, giving her a safe place to stay and helping her establish a life that does not include returning to what would almost surely be continued abuse. When I asked why reunification in such a situation was a good outcome, I was told that even though a marriage might involve abuse, a woman most often was better off remaining married rather than being divorced. This is because a divorced woman so often does not have the right to keep her children and even though she may not be able to get a job, she is not entitled to sufficient support from her ex-husband. Under these circumstances, a woman has no choice but to return to her family, which may also be an abusive environment, and her family may simply try very quickly to marry her off again.<br />
<br />
Many organizations have pointed out that the laws in Iraq institutionalize violence against women. This arguably includes essentially forcing a woman to remain in an abusive marriage for fear of losing her children, being unable to support herself, returning to an unsympathetic family and/or being forced into a marriage which may be worse. It is just one area where reform is needed. And in too many cases involving adultery and similar issues, "virginity tests" -- which are much less reliable than polygraphs -- are found to be persuasive evidence. However, the US and Iraq do share some things in common: as in so many countries, spousal abuse is far too common and elder abuse is on the rise (one of our clients is an 81-year old man whose son and wife beat him).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Second, there are laws which are foreign to an American practitioner. One of our cases involves a law that criminalizes behavior that is difficult, if not impossible, to prove. Of course, this gives the trial judge an inordinate amount of "flexibility" in deciding guilt or innocence. As an example, we are representing a woman who has been charged with what is essentially encouraging the suicide of another. She had a minor argument over housework with a sister-in-law who later burned herself to death. Although Dr. Kevorkian and others have generated a lot of controversy over the issue of "assisted suicide," I don't think it was ever intended to cover this type of situation.<br />
<br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately, as I pointed out above with spousal and elder abuse, there are also many similarities with legal situations in the United States. One of our clients has been charged with stealing from his employer -- an employer who owes him salary. Arguably, the employer believes that if he accuses the man of theft, he will drop his claim for salary owed to him and in any event, because our client is an illiterate Arab living and working in a Kurdish region, his employer may believe that he is without legal redress -- access to the justice system. Luckily, one of our A2J lawyers will help change that outcome. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">As in America, in order to try and successfully enforce your rights, you need -- or at least are far better off if you have -- a lawyer. One example is a situation where a simple phone call from a Heartland Alliance lawyer produced significant results for a young woman from the Philippines who was brought to Sulaymaniyah with the promise of a job. She had a three-year contract to work for a family who, as often is the case, took her passport. She ran away from the family after she suffered sexual harassment and other forms of mistreatment. She came to visit Heartland's Legal Help Desk and after contacting her former employer, we were able to retrieve her passport. She is now happily working for a hotel.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6RFEY_G-5YWhKq5LC56xjII9CBvjldhsEctgNKucTfXxlCmb-hJPQng2PYbyqf9KDk7fhqcLAFU7R967YM4yjyPe8ILquhBXsmRjTKRj2j0r351hez4JC4nsTqPZgFEETUW1mL78jWJX/s1600/IMG00408-20110817-1627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6RFEY_G-5YWhKq5LC56xjII9CBvjldhsEctgNKucTfXxlCmb-hJPQng2PYbyqf9KDk7fhqcLAFU7R967YM4yjyPe8ILquhBXsmRjTKRj2j0r351hez4JC4nsTqPZgFEETUW1mL78jWJX/s320/IMG00408-20110817-1627.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young neighbors</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">One of the things I love most about Kurdistan is the children I meet. By and large, as in every country in which I've traveled, the children are the friendliest of all the people I encounter. They are almost always ready with a smile, a "hello," a wave and are delighted to have their picture taken. I should qualify this by the fact that most of the children I run into are boys. As with women, girls are seen less often than boys, whether it is playing on the street or attending mosque. (In fact, I'm told women generally attend only on Fridays and then only if the mosque is large enough to have a separate section for women.)</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWS9JDfTL7s7-kwm5CCZkvUq_J27s49Jme2uhgclvNcsjT7ict2CCe4ii_do9l7now0k_Z1lOjkUbXYHsl6YsSafmvpx4jKVZ5_xrI9H4DvzKnx5QH6re07hrM1VTJznl6xUgKTyGqEGZX/s1600/IMG00417-20110822-1612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWS9JDfTL7s7-kwm5CCZkvUq_J27s49Jme2uhgclvNcsjT7ict2CCe4ii_do9l7now0k_Z1lOjkUbXYHsl6YsSafmvpx4jKVZ5_xrI9H4DvzKnx5QH6re07hrM1VTJznl6xUgKTyGqEGZX/s320/IMG00417-20110822-1612.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A make-shift game of football down the street from our house</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">By and large, the activities and interests of children are universal -- hanging out, playing or watching football, or going to the market (mall?) -- whether in America or Iraq which, according to the UN, is transitioning from a conflict to a post-conflict country which still experiences violence too often. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1WP3howck_5DU8F5bzuygOa3a48_Snf3eOQGS199It_2Ta1h0lDIcOCT3E82bfp2iG1tDdNGbOs14c3Mfb578SNTs1iLcm7Ff39nbLN0hksPUw7zOB3Ula8xNzwpCPIvi7-kJHuYoDxSD/s1600/IMG00418-20110822-1613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1WP3howck_5DU8F5bzuygOa3a48_Snf3eOQGS199It_2Ta1h0lDIcOCT3E82bfp2iG1tDdNGbOs14c3Mfb578SNTs1iLcm7Ff39nbLN0hksPUw7zOB3Ula8xNzwpCPIvi7-kJHuYoDxSD/s320/IMG00418-20110822-1613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
As I think I've mentioned previously, the Kurdish people are the largest ethnic group without a country of their own and, therefore, have invariably suffered at the hands of the governments of the countries in which they live: Iraq, Iran, Turkey and Syria. Although Iraqi Kurds are now one of the most well off groups in Iraq since the war, they suffered horribly under Saddam Hussein, including being the victims of genocide. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0rXrkU3Db0XPEx07i5GIyfIp-BSJ4jstbhe4rVtibcW3YRld2RncT0j-_zvWJmP2mXKP9SizDif1M-xdtj69FU_EMT2v2zvSNFsZCv1qPBHgeMKlIruwrhJuwI_qaT6x_A3AVHiC1Z6y/s1600/IMG00432-20110824-1344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0rXrkU3Db0XPEx07i5GIyfIp-BSJ4jstbhe4rVtibcW3YRld2RncT0j-_zvWJmP2mXKP9SizDif1M-xdtj69FU_EMT2v2zvSNFsZCv1qPBHgeMKlIruwrhJuwI_qaT6x_A3AVHiC1Z6y/s320/IMG00432-20110824-1344.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memorial outside of Erbil to victims of Saddam Hussein</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Their Turkish and Iranian counterparts are not so lucky right now. This last week has been filled with news stories about Turkey and Iran crossing their borders into Iraq to kill Turkish Kurds and Iranian Kurds, respectively, who live in the mountainous border regions. There is a saying that one person's terrorist is another person's freedom fighter. These mountain dwellers have been labeled as terrorist groups by many; however, for some, they are seen to be fighting for the freedom of their Kurdish countrymen who have been deprived of basic human rights, tortured and killed in their homelands -- Turkey and Iran -- where they have lived for thousands of years. And is so often the case, innocent people have been killed in the conflict, including a farmer, his wife, his mother and children -- seven in all -- who were on the way to Erbil in their pick-up truck, having decided that their farm was too close to the area of conflict. They were targeted and killed by a missile from a Turkish fighter helicopter. In addition to losing their lives and being injured, these innocent victims are losing their property and their homes. So even though Kurdistan largely avoided the series of coordinated suicide bombings by Al Qaeda in Mesopotamia from the prior week, the Kurds in Iraq are still the victims of violence as they have been for centuries. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqcuzx2siI-4eZbCLJtB2I4ShFEOyop2S2tMBqpW7qa2YIndG_EH_Q0DwCcpiyokP4TRkV9JQzD7VNkNCEBm0ONWMxVnf7Ogl-mbVB0mm2l7fdhZeNAG7eOs1oFgby7tmbHhzh1jvicoR/s1600/IMG00442-20110824-1502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqcuzx2siI-4eZbCLJtB2I4ShFEOyop2S2tMBqpW7qa2YIndG_EH_Q0DwCcpiyokP4TRkV9JQzD7VNkNCEBm0ONWMxVnf7Ogl-mbVB0mm2l7fdhZeNAG7eOs1oFgby7tmbHhzh1jvicoR/s320/IMG00442-20110824-1502.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hills between Erbil and Sulaymaniyah</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-40345439761832053892011-08-12T12:40:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:28:37.117+03:00The Contemplative Month of Ramadan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfHpNEiB1lFAQ6U2GjlDxytPtZpYRYkzswBI7ryW3BwZhKSxh9ib9Rh70FH_yfWa23XdcrQ9vIKLbnlqiav_mH7otZIXJhOXctUb2WhQ5rjlhL-n_XiTkgJdhu0ZRhD8ZVDog5d2H8bE-/s1600/IMG00380-20110808-1650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfHpNEiB1lFAQ6U2GjlDxytPtZpYRYkzswBI7ryW3BwZhKSxh9ib9Rh70FH_yfWa23XdcrQ9vIKLbnlqiav_mH7otZIXJhOXctUb2WhQ5rjlhL-n_XiTkgJdhu0ZRhD8ZVDog5d2H8bE-/s320/IMG00380-20110808-1650.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting on the street</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">We have been back in the KRG, Iraq, going on two weeks now and are almost midway through Ramadan, which I understand ends at sunset on August 29. On August 30 Eid Al-Fitr begins -- a holiday to celebrate the end of Ramadan. The entire community comes together for special prayers, visiting friends and family, and generally enjoying time together as they wish each other "Eid Mubarak" (Happy Eid). You will not be surprised to learn that much of the celebration includes lots of eating and drinking. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Since arriving back on August 3 I've successfully fasted from food; I confess that I am drinking water to avoid dehydration during these August days when the temperature reaches 115-120 degrees (and ok, I have a cup of coffee in the morning). Like my neighbors, I await sunset when the fast ends and I enjoy the meal of the day.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbR4TAk3ojtZDt90ic-QbQyxa5G4MU5ePR6cJThYemK7N__-MqBFbFcGcQLUB22a4CIuXzvMXVtKZm_-N7yibqAyWLJsOevL8qXE2T0X5Ha4dkTuYUwivGqk5nAIpxqgesJfqDIive78A/s1600/IMG00392-20110811-1640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbR4TAk3ojtZDt90ic-QbQyxa5G4MU5ePR6cJThYemK7N__-MqBFbFcGcQLUB22a4CIuXzvMXVtKZm_-N7yibqAyWLJsOevL8qXE2T0X5Ha4dkTuYUwivGqk5nAIpxqgesJfqDIive78A/s320/IMG00392-20110811-1640.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearing sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Because days are spent without food or drink, as you can imagine, there is a much slower pace of life during this month. Our office closes at 2:00 during Ramadan and the Access to Justice Project team has suspended our Mobile Legal Clinic outreach visits for the month. Stores, markets and the like generally open mid to late afternoon; there are generally fewer cars and fewer pedestrians on the streets; and the chant of prayer is heard more frequently from the loudspeakers of the mosques. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikz_kT6g3p7-mQ8UaZg6889Zeb9jQ9O_ZrSVq_cLqlRY1R_4mblQRd0HalE8mhTbJABMi4sbIQlmvjU6Oy0Tch3yB7moUlF8BYpAjb4Lo3BMBcphmevBEA1xDSKGP97EF09P4x-j9I27LD/s1600/IMG00384-20110810-0656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikz_kT6g3p7-mQ8UaZg6889Zeb9jQ9O_ZrSVq_cLqlRY1R_4mblQRd0HalE8mhTbJABMi4sbIQlmvjU6Oy0Tch3yB7moUlF8BYpAjb4Lo3BMBcphmevBEA1xDSKGP97EF09P4x-j9I27LD/s320/IMG00384-20110810-0656.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The normally bustling neighborhood bakery in the morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCWG1JJU9yEfhgpo73-MTd4kwh5aq7ChAU_j4lmGRomCiV6YSmofHZpN3ZKHHojaP1rcF4QloR3pWsGXSBgTkvBKP-RzHNv_UDcYr9Xzy5yRq7gHzpvCNsflS7Odm6NWr2cG6JsiPAoVFm/s1600/IMG00385-20110810-1518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCWG1JJU9yEfhgpo73-MTd4kwh5aq7ChAU_j4lmGRomCiV6YSmofHZpN3ZKHHojaP1rcF4QloR3pWsGXSBgTkvBKP-RzHNv_UDcYr9Xzy5yRq7gHzpvCNsflS7Odm6NWr2cG6JsiPAoVFm/s320/IMG00385-20110810-1518.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The same bakery late afternoon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I've noticed that women tend to dress more conservatively during Ramadan. Many who do not normally wear headscarves during the rest of the year cover their heads and even wear more somber clothing -- but nothing compared to women in other parts of the Middle East. I'm currently reading a book that was published in 2003 titled <em>Reading Lolita in Tehran </em>by<em> </em>Azar Nafisi, a previous bestseller. One website summarizes the book as follows:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: x-small;">Every Thursday morning for two years in the Islamic Republic of Iran, Azar Nafisi, a bold and inspired teacher, secretly gathered seven of her most committed female students to read forbidden Western classics. Some came from conservative and religious families, others were progressive and secular; some had spent time in jail. They were shy and uncomfortable at first, unaccustomed to being asked to speak their minds, but soon they removed their veils and began to speak more freely — their stories intertwining with the novels they were reading by Jane Austen, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Henry James, and Vladimir Nabokov. As Islamic morality squads staged arbitrary raids in Tehran, as fundamentalists seized hold of the universities and a blind censor stifled artistic expression, the women in Nafisi’s living room spoke not only of the books they were reading but also about themselves, their dreams and disappointments.</span><br />
<br />
Ms.Nafisi describes how the colors of the women's clothes under their black coverings -- vivid yellows, oranges, reds -- reflect the women's personalities. Happily, Kurdistan is not Iran; there is a history of colorful dress here and, as I've mentioned before, blue jeans are <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><em>de rigueur</em></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span>for young women in Suly.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFh5mLbT0d63JLTw3Y80grcRjPqu6lzbYhEs7OKODhA77f9zf-tIjDwQlYdUw6gbhwwkfrqD21bOgg22JUN-DsqlsA8ai2Q87CixoQaWd6w5hiVJiOo3HcvLOAF5iY-hXpOp5GKLIw2oM/s1600/IMG00388-20110810-1520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFh5mLbT0d63JLTw3Y80grcRjPqu6lzbYhEs7OKODhA77f9zf-tIjDwQlYdUw6gbhwwkfrqD21bOgg22JUN-DsqlsA8ai2Q87CixoQaWd6w5hiVJiOo3HcvLOAF5iY-hXpOp5GKLIw2oM/s320/IMG00388-20110810-1520.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric and clothing store down the street from our house</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Which is not to say that traditional values are not honored. Each morning this week, breaking the otherwise quiet atmosphere, there have been traffic jams outside Heartland's office and I hear whoops and cries through my office window from the dozens of people, mostly men, gathered across the street. When I asked some of our staff members what was going on, I was told that they were there to pick up the government entitlement for marriage -- the equivalent of about $5000 available to encourage marriage (and perhaps as well as a way to distribute government funds). </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg389N3gDpkhL-2X9CGfzXetVrgAp_QeUHc1g0E76_h5aWYmdedW_FMNrMFW_wmqaLaFugFG8X_cSD4mHDbzdVXbggYM0FBWIX0sC2ng0ku8ZhtJhC86Gq2g6nVohdMmo92Qgby9iAI9uYh/s1600/IMG00383-20110809-0727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg389N3gDpkhL-2X9CGfzXetVrgAp_QeUHc1g0E76_h5aWYmdedW_FMNrMFW_wmqaLaFugFG8X_cSD4mHDbzdVXbggYM0FBWIX0sC2ng0ku8ZhtJhC86Gq2g6nVohdMmo92Qgby9iAI9uYh/s320/IMG00383-20110809-0727.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gathering outside government office building for "marriage funds"<br />
<div align="justify"><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">When I was in the United States last month, I spent a long weekend at the house of my lovely friend, Deirdre Martini, who each year gathers women in the restructuring industry to come and share fun, food and fellowship (even though I am no longer in that world, Deirdre has graciously continued to include me). So many of my friends were there, old and new, and we ate, drank, laughed, talked, sunbathed, swam -- such a contrast to the way our sisters in some of the world are forced to exist. Again I'm reminded not to take things for granted. Naturally a number of people were curious about my time here. One of the things I talked about was the experience of working children, the importance of the drop in centers and their need for puzzles, coloring books, etc. In response, Leslie Berkoff provided me with a box of things that I've brought back here for the kids. Thanks so much Leslie!</span></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;">So the pace of life here, which is normally much slower than in the United States or London, is even more so now and will be until the end of the month. As intended, this quietude of Ramadan does create a time and space for spiritual reflection, a time to cease some worldly things (though I must admit I miss passing each day on my way home from work the group of men playing dominoes) and a reminder of things taken for granted by those of us who are incredibly fortunate (to have, for example, three meals each day).</span></div><div align="left"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6pFgE8pvDe-yz2y5xbKkK61AOe7WcUl9hGzKVXjgxC5eg9VDk6Ik116RW_BSt0HSBVnTGQY1UtEfT5H2AYqg3_T9to61r2exeCTAGtogUM7cSF3-7pXw4vJ06YU-dKP2wC_Gmwkp7Znue/s1600/IMG00330-20110706-1651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6pFgE8pvDe-yz2y5xbKkK61AOe7WcUl9hGzKVXjgxC5eg9VDk6Ik116RW_BSt0HSBVnTGQY1UtEfT5H2AYqg3_T9to61r2exeCTAGtogUM7cSF3-7pXw4vJ06YU-dKP2wC_Gmwkp7Znue/s320/IMG00330-20110706-1651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing dominoes</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDY8kESA0f-nO1j_1-vJNbxL7NUgY8OlCUvsAV-3dkricKsbskteBctK7vdwcxQePHYxTSAiRw9FLQ_jEVDfqbZzREefVXuyEn53_NqvZ1M1ofSNCHEOXD_hkvqSntDYFiT5eBi3KQbq1/s1600/IMG00376-20110804-1510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDY8kESA0f-nO1j_1-vJNbxL7NUgY8OlCUvsAV-3dkricKsbskteBctK7vdwcxQePHYxTSAiRw9FLQ_jEVDfqbZzREefVXuyEn53_NqvZ1M1ofSNCHEOXD_hkvqSntDYFiT5eBi3KQbq1/s320/IMG00376-20110804-1510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-76241752703047696612011-07-12T22:37:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:30:53.523+03:00Letting Children Be Children<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7w6MrH4MmpnERdmk2bz_X7UehsE7EsfJA3l8r1TWmogbgW60v0ikVMPOKrCam9SRRwxMU4wzrUdqLYxghbtv0SBOawiIqhP0s3TN7IAUmqhB03s0S2ZEmjO5_U3Dti4ONKsDpp7p95fK/s1600/IMG00345-20110712-0725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7w6MrH4MmpnERdmk2bz_X7UehsE7EsfJA3l8r1TWmogbgW60v0ikVMPOKrCam9SRRwxMU4wzrUdqLYxghbtv0SBOawiIqhP0s3TN7IAUmqhB03s0S2ZEmjO5_U3Dti4ONKsDpp7p95fK/s320/IMG00345-20110712-0725.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Children playing the Iraqi version of chess</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">I know I said I probably wouldn't post another blog until I returned to Iraq from a visit to the UK and the US but I want to write about a couple of experiences I had over the last few days. I'm sitting in the house waiting for our taxi to arrive, scheduled for 1:00 am, to take us to the Suly airport for our 4:00 am flight. For some reason, most every flight out of, and many into Sulaymaniyah, are scheduled in the wee hours of the morning. We fly to Amman, then Jim and I separate, he going to Amsterdam then New York City, me to London and then on to the US. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQiCCOL1uN_4jzb1Uzz8V7VqqtO7rcsKSOCKHTq3OOcBELrFOljg7uq0WzmFAZ72SUy8TCsO6qsvz9WWl4aJ5OL5izZAi728KEtXUWJTL3tjgps7jal3OehAInw4x_DLnRgavEv66ndMOj/s1600/IMG00348-20110712-0728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQiCCOL1uN_4jzb1Uzz8V7VqqtO7rcsKSOCKHTq3OOcBELrFOljg7uq0WzmFAZ72SUy8TCsO6qsvz9WWl4aJ5OL5izZAi728KEtXUWJTL3tjgps7jal3OehAInw4x_DLnRgavEv66ndMOj/s320/IMG00348-20110712-0728.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Animals in the stockyard</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">One of Heartland Alliance's partners runs a drop-in center in the bazaar and a mobile drop-in center for working children, both of which I had the privilege of visiting this morning. Although Iraqi law prohibits children under 15 or 16 from working, there is an exemption for work with relatives -- an invitation to exploitation. This morning, the mobile drop-in center (a small bus) was at the stockyard, a place where animals are sold and often slaughtered. Children start working there early in the morning and often arrive at the drop-in center covered in blood and cuts from slaughtering animals(I was reminded of <em>The Jungle, </em>Upton Sinclair's 1906 novel about the Chicago meatpacking industry which spurred government regulation). They are given juice, games to play and an opportunity to relax and just act like children for a while. About 15 to 30 kids of various ages come each day. This morning, I met some terrific boys (they are all boys), age 12 or under, who were warm and friendly, as I have found almost every Iraqi child to be.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCzfdrF32gVf7FGqAVCZVXQCDY8mC8_jeM3reojOV8-SgSwvESFmTBFeJufwflKOjU-GIy8xB_5mxAgolTd_IPxbbE_-NhyphenhyphenAFqkLmvJHpxWHHRzOnRPyz3YZi8Xmvc7u3z0ATc4IIqiWUO/s1600/IMG00349-20110712-0730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCzfdrF32gVf7FGqAVCZVXQCDY8mC8_jeM3reojOV8-SgSwvESFmTBFeJufwflKOjU-GIy8xB_5mxAgolTd_IPxbbE_-NhyphenhyphenAFqkLmvJHpxWHHRzOnRPyz3YZi8Xmvc7u3z0ATc4IIqiWUO/s320/IMG00349-20110712-0730.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my new friends</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">I then went to the drop-in center in the market. Because it's stationary and reaches more children, it offers more services, including a doctor who is there once a week, music, art, educational activities, as well as games. The center greets about 80 boys a day, aged from 10 or 11 to 16. The art I saw hanging on the walls by the kids was amazing, art that showed the places they worked (for example, garages, produce stands, selling cigarettes, etc.) as well as activities at the center. Help us support these centers (unfortunately the drop-in centers in Baghdad and Basra were forced to close because of failure to find additional funding) by donating on-line at <a href="http://www.heartlandalliance.org/">www.heartlandalliance.org</a> and designating your gift for Iraq (I know, I'm an unbroken record but the work is so important). </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCktJOJim9l15ab_0K7D6i4PSVHmmzBLqe_xJiY1hyNCI-MTSFiGWjUtWXJi47l1xDLzR3qxGgWW17TIX9h9VPmPsriHl0TR-p3_j1_fpcirY7VsKoZSI5lgowzDNf2g0pBs3qnpu2QkyM/s1600/IMG00355-20110712-0830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCktJOJim9l15ab_0K7D6i4PSVHmmzBLqe_xJiY1hyNCI-MTSFiGWjUtWXJi47l1xDLzR3qxGgWW17TIX9h9VPmPsriHl0TR-p3_j1_fpcirY7VsKoZSI5lgowzDNf2g0pBs3qnpu2QkyM/s320/IMG00355-20110712-0830.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drawings by drop-in center boys </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The boys that I met today, when not in school, should be having fun -- doing things boys love to do, like playing football. When I lived in London I became a huge Chelsea football fan and my favorite player is Frank Lampard. Ironically, on the way home from work today, I ran into a young man decked out in the full Chelsea kit with Frank Lampard's name and number (8) on the shirt and pants.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgcIl3zSp1bAxURaiOPFN7-08B0BZZed2849iWp9FHOAVKxImMOEXSppqkdaArWNIHPOERYhonK7ap_WezCy_atEGRE8SqJJ6fTFjpjm3a7BtmeUWKvUABNoNHDUjdY3RhTRD9NhgKbDm/s1600/IMG00369-20110712-1705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgcIl3zSp1bAxURaiOPFN7-08B0BZZed2849iWp9FHOAVKxImMOEXSppqkdaArWNIHPOERYhonK7ap_WezCy_atEGRE8SqJJ6fTFjpjm3a7BtmeUWKvUABNoNHDUjdY3RhTRD9NhgKbDm/s320/IMG00369-20110712-1705.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Iraqi Chelsea fan</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">This weekend we had the opportunity to go to a Kurdish party in the hills about an hour or so outside of Sulaymaniyah. We were invited to join new ex-pat friends from Canada, one of whom is a volunteer at Heartland with a partner who works for a Middle Eastern oil rig company doing business in Kurdistan with our host. We experienced the famous Kurdish hospitality in all its glory -- lots of food, drink and a host whose only focus was to make sure we had enough of everything. Just as we thought we couldn't eat more and were about to leave, the "main" course was brought out! </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI18M6LEKFZsDlhoUYOYa9o6Zj771TlQxKsbkCFlhhg9JC4tknRxC674uXvtZKfLUVwFkrnMWqw5DELZ-PgnUFG-jRahb_xWbf0b-sbqd4muJBhZOxk4ebNlSj7zISDsxg5OccZJgEahTn/s1600/IMG00340-20110709-1657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI18M6LEKFZsDlhoUYOYa9o6Zj771TlQxKsbkCFlhhg9JC4tknRxC674uXvtZKfLUVwFkrnMWqw5DELZ-PgnUFG-jRahb_xWbf0b-sbqd4muJBhZOxk4ebNlSj7zISDsxg5OccZJgEahTn/s320/IMG00340-20110709-1657.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kurdish hospitality</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">One of the nice benefits of being guests at this lovely affair was that we drove outside the city and into the hills where it was not only beautiful but about 20 or 30 degrees cooler than the plain on which Suly lies. When we return to Iraq, it will be what is purportedly the hottest month of the year -- August -- which reaches 130 to 140 degrees! In the meantime we'll enjoy the "cool" temperatures in the west.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-T02uCDcIDgsAB_Tr9hMGQQZVmADBEUnolxIs4meo6tzqyTYKsz9-m1_dfvYU8uoayDt-cm5i3z1OqykautSnle3PhyzJxO9lWg5O_W06DBiQVpmh8OLroDODEKzKqhPXUkMh1s4_q23/s1600/IMG00338-20110709-1531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-T02uCDcIDgsAB_Tr9hMGQQZVmADBEUnolxIs4meo6tzqyTYKsz9-m1_dfvYU8uoayDt-cm5i3z1OqykautSnle3PhyzJxO9lWg5O_W06DBiQVpmh8OLroDODEKzKqhPXUkMh1s4_q23/s320/IMG00338-20110709-1531.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The countryside outside of Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-88691498393150532172011-07-08T14:42:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:33:00.599+03:00The Hot -- and Holy -- Month of August (2011)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGfsCh3uS7lQeJKfgXUEDs4PIDlqCdqgcfU0SnrpFoCrm3VmRKnE6zFJqEkONkKvK5CfFRGcFYDDvsEiMk0ngSI5M_VVuBGD8T2RpKidC9srXtPxR9ssZRnt1E61DlMcs92Q0YuL-j3oSr/s1600/rashid+mosque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGfsCh3uS7lQeJKfgXUEDs4PIDlqCdqgcfU0SnrpFoCrm3VmRKnE6zFJqEkONkKvK5CfFRGcFYDDvsEiMk0ngSI5M_VVuBGD8T2RpKidC9srXtPxR9ssZRnt1E61DlMcs92Q0YuL-j3oSr/s320/rashid+mosque.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rashid Mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">It's Friday morning in Sulaymaniyah, which is the equivalent of Sunday morning in other parts of the world (Saturday here is like Saturday elsewhere -- perhaps the busiest day of the week when everyone does their shopping, runs errands, goes out at night, etc.). Though it is the first day of our weekend, it is the holiest of the days of the week in Islam, the day when almost every shop is closed in the morning and many of them all day. It is the day when in addition to the call of prayer five times a day, there is a fairly long "sermon" -- all of which, of course, is broadcast from mosques throughout Suly, indeed throughout the Muslim world. They are not synchronized so if you are standing outside during one of the daily calls to prayer or the Friday sermon, you hear different voices ringing throughout the city. Our house is literally three doors down from the Rashid Mosque so we have the privilege of being able to hear these rituals clearly. For those of us who have not been exposed to this all our lives, at first it is surprising and a bit disconcerting but then it becomes soothing and comforting as I think prayer does in all religions.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1pOg-V277mXmj0TVpgRV6FZCvI-cewyRxyYGY6j-D_scICjMmyclbvS9FilGhbale2jzE0GYh2CaIgAFNDPgAHMUztHC1dggSEeX6jpAL_5nherJCrMHu41wAvZgjj3Nh0H6dtqEndGZP/s1600/IMG00329-20110706-1649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1pOg-V277mXmj0TVpgRV6FZCvI-cewyRxyYGY6j-D_scICjMmyclbvS9FilGhbale2jzE0GYh2CaIgAFNDPgAHMUztHC1dggSEeX6jpAL_5nherJCrMHu41wAvZgjj3Nh0H6dtqEndGZP/s320/IMG00329-20110706-1649.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electricity lines in Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">It is hot here -- really hot and about to get hotter (one of the reasons I enjoy writing this blog is so that I can see on my blog site the picture taken of Christian and me last winter on the slopes of the Rockies when we were skiing with my good friend, Kelly). My friends in the US tell me that it's been 88 or 90 or even 95 degrees there -- SO hot. My reply is "that's nothing." We are currently at about 110 to 115 degrees on a daily basis. In August it will be up to 130 or so. So air conditioning and fans are particularly welcome and the almost daily or so power outages are more of a nuisance. But at night when the sun goes down, it is really quite pleasant. Last night we had friends over for dinner -- a new volunteer for Heartland Iraq and her partner, who works for a company that supplies oil rigs, and a former British soldier stationed in Iraq who is now head of security for one of the oil companies -- and we ate outside on our patio enjoying a relatively cool evening and great conversation. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Jim and I are leaving Wednesday for a few weeks back in the US. I will be going to London for meetings and to reconnect with friends and former colleagues, then to South Carolina, Chicago and the East Coast to visit family and friends, and to take care of those things you can't ignore, like the dentist, hair cutter, annual physical, etc. Jim will be traveling to NY to see family and friends and to take care of those necessities as well. The "cooler" weather will be welcome. We've made lists of things to take away from Iraq (what made me think I would ever need a wool winter coat?) and things to bring back to Iraq (why didn't I know that I would not be able to find balsamic vinegar or Woolite in Iraq?).</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZeDEQkOHOkameJNdny-IOBAgPaFdPahSM4VzD7wPsj6WQ3zt6HtnATQxomGK1D-nhxaSfE_cXnTEE10ko8FY8pA9Po_DQFqBsxiuAOoZOR04ac0Xs4LjfvnhlZk8e6OVOUGNkBeu4e8Q/s1600/IMG-20110625-00045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcZeDEQkOHOkameJNdny-IOBAgPaFdPahSM4VzD7wPsj6WQ3zt6HtnATQxomGK1D-nhxaSfE_cXnTEE10ko8FY8pA9Po_DQFqBsxiuAOoZOR04ac0Xs4LjfvnhlZk8e6OVOUGNkBeu4e8Q/s320/IMG-20110625-00045.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our yard during one of the only days of rain in June</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">When we return, Ramadan will have just begun (August 1 this year but its occurrence varies each year according to the Islamic calendar). Ramadan, a month-long period during which Muslims fast for self-purification, is one of the five pillars of Islam; the other four are recognition of the Oneness of God (Allah) and Muhammad as His prophet, the aforementioned prayer five times a day, alms-giving/charity and a pilgrimage to Mecca during one's lifetime (Hajj).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">During Ramadan, Muslims fast every day from dawn until sunset and special prayers are held. Fasting means no liquids or food or other satisfaction of physical needs, but certain people are exempt, including those who would suffer severe ill health (but they must make it up by fasting later if they can or feeding at least one needy person at least one meal per day or the equivalent) . The month provides an opportunity to get closer to God. I'm planning on participating in this important ritual when I return not only as a sign of respect to those in the country in which I'm living (and who wants to see me stuff my face when they are hungry?) but also, as the Koran says, to get closer to God. I've always thought that it many ways Ramadan is like the Christian period of Lent, only shorter and more intense, but sharing the same purpose. In fact, Islam, Judaism and Christianity share many things in common, including the recognition of Abraham as a prophet and Jesus as a messenger of God and a messiah who was sent to guide the children of Israel with a new Gospel. Unfortunately, so many forget the similarities we share in our search for relationship with God and focus upon -- and shed blood over -- the differences, or in fact the distortions of the holy books.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This will probably be my last post until I return in August -- so stay tuned, and stay cool!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ulrBr2QpajxcHAS4_M2Kwa5f7xjFPdmV67G6j5QM55x9q9iIHgUj3JfIcuPYaxnePZJj9mWiNi3QFMeGMKfWQ77iXfV-P9S_8aJyefdhRzoMQl5chWcmXibIeedZh6LUKsxWd6ZwbGfv/s1600/IMG00335-20110707-1516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ulrBr2QpajxcHAS4_M2Kwa5f7xjFPdmV67G6j5QM55x9q9iIHgUj3JfIcuPYaxnePZJj9mWiNi3QFMeGMKfWQ77iXfV-P9S_8aJyefdhRzoMQl5chWcmXibIeedZh6LUKsxWd6ZwbGfv/s320/IMG00335-20110707-1516.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I snapped this picture last night on the way home from work -- I'm not sure if Halloween is celebrated in Iraq, but if it is, this child is ready!</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-63093131408488129192011-07-01T13:58:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:38:57.448+03:00Victims of War in the "Countries" of Kurdistan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxXGnoQ94xpHUUbQSjexmpudSs9W3g-42deolNyF8ernApsFmuZESqshWqdCEJuRzjOjGCKyhlnklxDdzze3UnZ_Ylh4ExQ77w3G5OVzEKLLjjCAbeW5QyIA48P9Qvb7TadtI4N2DD406f/s1600/IMG00311-20110624-1438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxXGnoQ94xpHUUbQSjexmpudSs9W3g-42deolNyF8ernApsFmuZESqshWqdCEJuRzjOjGCKyhlnklxDdzze3UnZ_Ylh4ExQ77w3G5OVzEKLLjjCAbeW5QyIA48P9Qvb7TadtI4N2DD406f/s320/IMG00311-20110624-1438.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">IDP camp in Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Some of my Heartland colleagues have been working with IDP's -- internally displaced persons -- here in Suly. These are Arab Iraqis who have fled the sectarian violence in the south (mainly Baghdad and Basra) and have come to Kurdistan to find peace, at least until they are able to return to their homes. They are living in a camp in Suly -- about 60 families of approximately 250 people -- in makeshift structures. Their children are not being educated, their water and fuel is sometimes cut off and garbage collection suspended. And now it is proposed that a football stadium and parking lot be built on the site of the camp, so the land has become valuable and they would have to be moved (perhaps to another camp where currently non-Iraqis are living, i.e., Iranians and Syrians, who are afforded even fewer rights). The <em>Guiding Principles On Internal Displacement</em>, published by the United Nations sets forth the human rights protections afforded to IDPs; unfortunately, as with other international human rights principles, they are often ignored.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">As I mentioned, my colleagues have brought some joy to the children living there in an attempt to give them some normalcy and structure in their lives. Last weekend the children put on a puppet show, <em>Akhdar and the Enormous Carrot,</em> which was a delight. It reminded me of the children's Christmas pageant that my former church, St. Matthew's Episcopal in Evanston, Illinois, put on each year: controlled chaos with children of all ages together with adults having about as much success directing them as they would herding cats! It was delightful.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj10AvoWuGlAdp5xfHgfaKgPrzNR-0_YLrX_SeuU2mKpkRggkXfL_dZ_iEqL-KgL9CXhIdN307veW5KROCCUm0HDwyJat0Cp6cK7GPVxvnwFw5sSU0DJdjNFDbhLnGWnHWx9w_QYQ4L3WAK/s1600/IMG00319-20110624-1454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj10AvoWuGlAdp5xfHgfaKgPrzNR-0_YLrX_SeuU2mKpkRggkXfL_dZ_iEqL-KgL9CXhIdN307veW5KROCCUm0HDwyJat0Cp6cK7GPVxvnwFw5sSU0DJdjNFDbhLnGWnHWx9w_QYQ4L3WAK/s320/IMG00319-20110624-1454.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the puppet show</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">And by the way, we are still accepting donations to cover the cost of the puppet show and other activities here in Iraq. Please go to <a href="http://www.heartlandalliance.org/">www.heartlandalliance.org</a> to contribute and help bring more moments of joy to these children and their families (you can designate your gift for this purpose). We all thank you!!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Since coming to Northern Iraq I've been to Duhok twice and Erbil twice. I've heard that each city -- Suly, Duhok, Erbil and others across Kurdistan (including Kurdish cities in Iran, Syria and Turkey which the Kurds also consider to be part of their "country") are like separate countries and I am beginning to see why. There are several dialects of Kurdish, including Sorani, spoken in Suly and other parts of central Kurdistan, and Badinani,spoken in Duhok (this according to one source:<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;"> "<span class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-0">Kurdish dialects can be divided into three primary groups:</span><span lang="de"> </span><span class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-0">the Northern Kurdish dialects group also called Kurmanji and Badínaní</span><span lang="de"><span class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-0">; </span></span><span class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-0">Central Kurdish dialects</span> group also called Sorani and the Southern Kurdish dialects group also called Pehlewaní or "Pahlawanik" group in some sources; the two other major branches of Kurdish language are Dimílí group, also called "Zaza" and Hewramí group also called Goraní (Gúraní) in some sources; these are further divided into scores of dialects and sub-dialects as well</span>"). </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IZ85KAtUu4KutxMyq2j1auXwZQJNaVI9P7oqvRy0W892y2YWQp44t9tALG1kLlTcQsiVB-sItGN8N5zFF-X_AQ9-QRSrE-sFxFjiqc0d5YsaVJBQ0hm5d_ZCqRjrO-DBq55ouuh9vW2q/s1600/IMG-20110625-00054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IZ85KAtUu4KutxMyq2j1auXwZQJNaVI9P7oqvRy0W892y2YWQp44t9tALG1kLlTcQsiVB-sItGN8N5zFF-X_AQ9-QRSrE-sFxFjiqc0d5YsaVJBQ0hm5d_ZCqRjrO-DBq55ouuh9vW2q/s320/IMG-20110625-00054.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sulaymaniyah</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">In addition to language differences (and although they are called dialects, my understanding from my Kurdish colleagues is that they are so different from one another that often Sorani-speaking Kurds communicate in Arabic rather than Badinani with Kurds in Duhok). As I mentioned in a prior blog, there are political differences -- the PUK party in Suly and surrounding areas, and the KDP in Duhok and Erbil; geographical differences -- compare the pictures; and cultural differences. When in Duhok, I met with the President of the Duhok Courthouse to finalize plans for setting up our Know Your Rights Help Desk in the courthouse. On the way into the parking lot, a lawyer from my Duhok team started shouting with the armed police officer stationed there. I asked my Suly colleague what they were fighting about (she's an amazing woman who speaks English beautifully, Kurdish -- her native tongue -- and Arabic) and she explained that they weren't fighting but that's how people talk in Duhok!</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS5PinufYdSmg-S9F-n-IbrIUmNrzczl8ozuq3TTvf03j4OIdRyDBAZgovnxS7gbONXTDUyx7gLtTWsMW_My1_CIO2mzsgYcMEJWfe6HBDaRs4-9lQSc9vZxgECe19q4mMgXQisaSGD-M2/s1600/IMG00303-20110607-0605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS5PinufYdSmg-S9F-n-IbrIUmNrzczl8ozuq3TTvf03j4OIdRyDBAZgovnxS7gbONXTDUyx7gLtTWsMW_My1_CIO2mzsgYcMEJWfe6HBDaRs4-9lQSc9vZxgECe19q4mMgXQisaSGD-M2/s320/IMG00303-20110607-0605.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duhok</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">Monday is July 4 -- Independence Day in the United States, a holiday I've always loved since the time I was a little girl and had to cover my ears when my beloved grandfather would shoot off the cannon in his backyard in LeRoy, Ohio. In Evanston, a suburb of Chicago, where my son, Christian, grew up, there is always a parade in the afternoon followed by wonderful fireworks over Lake Michigan. The parade is a classic -- floats, bands, politicians, the kazoo corps, the riding lawnmower brigade, fire engines, antique cars, and Boy Scout troops, just to name a few participants. People start putting out lawn chairs and other items on the street curb of the parade route days in advance to secure a prime viewing location (remarkably no one removes these objects). In the late afternoon/early evening, Christian and I would go to the home of good friends for a BBQ and then we all headed over to the lake with our sheets and blankets to watch the fireworks display.</div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">Living in Iraq reminds me of how privileged I am to be an American -- notwithstanding the failings and shortcomings of my country, including an ill-planned war that has left many victims in the land where I now live. Despite this, I have found that many of these victims want nothing more than to go to the United States even though there are so many others in this part of the world who despise us.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">So Happy Fourth everyone!! On this day, please join me in being thankful for all we have; in hoping for peace throughout the world; and in living (and giving) out of gratitude for the abundance in our lives rather than a fear of scarcity.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wwzJlukFhUsGlPyvtsv9ttdzrZNX4t8b9X4BkOuIIm8Vbw1yxsNLX0X2cwPIzL8NK0RLH6TbVzswB1M4tYrJoogDHTwoDk9qALyC0rNfC_2dW8nEFnJsgOquaEjIBiazqL3s5j5lkcPU/s1600/IMG00324-20110701-1109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wwzJlukFhUsGlPyvtsv9ttdzrZNX4t8b9X4BkOuIIm8Vbw1yxsNLX0X2cwPIzL8NK0RLH6TbVzswB1M4tYrJoogDHTwoDk9qALyC0rNfC_2dW8nEFnJsgOquaEjIBiazqL3s5j5lkcPU/s320/IMG00324-20110701-1109.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Backyard in our house in Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7316962304446943678.post-82231498171824285582011-06-20T20:38:00.000+03:002011-09-30T15:40:59.157+03:00Highly Visible or Invisible--It's all your point of view.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmkhfalnx0f8-B5tQhG5oaPuiKOEbhHkPvQHj2Xel5wO3c8fFiwuaxoLhNdL7VfpQPHazs5UjEJMBjqOvr5Kd1_24kcEs6CmtqN_wDysJ8Eqrv5xcw02LcnHBMnHUQx70EAfeiQVzG0fy/s1600/dresses+in+market.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmkhfalnx0f8-B5tQhG5oaPuiKOEbhHkPvQHj2Xel5wO3c8fFiwuaxoLhNdL7VfpQPHazs5UjEJMBjqOvr5Kd1_24kcEs6CmtqN_wDysJ8Eqrv5xcw02LcnHBMnHUQx70EAfeiQVzG0fy/s320/dresses+in+market.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress shop in Suly bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">It won't be surprising to learn that I don't blend in very well with the native population here in Suly. I dress conservatively and cover my head so that my blonde hair doesn't stick out quite so much, but it's pretty unmistakable that I'm a foreigner. And dressing conservatively in this part of Iraq is not quite the same as in other parts -- even other parts of Kurdistan. Of course sleeveless shirts or blouses on women are inappropriate (I'm just not sure what it is about the upper arm that demands modesty) as is any garment that does not fall below the knee. However, jeans that look as if they have been painted on and heavily applied make-up are quite common in Sulaymaniyah, which is considered to be one of the most -- if not the most -- liberal and sophisticated cities in Kurdistan and Iraq. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9dZV3iaZvzJoqFYYhJCdLvt5OjbOmJNPYMG_JkZC0R5FIuhNZW2rAjtDmKZRc2A9iycjvkNJHCpD3B7B-A0YeVIYbn6J2-s_ailb_McS9W4ulNIK0jLZNYzXiw8d1LekMwjDRN3JPC5U/s1600/dress+truck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9dZV3iaZvzJoqFYYhJCdLvt5OjbOmJNPYMG_JkZC0R5FIuhNZW2rAjtDmKZRc2A9iycjvkNJHCpD3B7B-A0YeVIYbn6J2-s_ailb_McS9W4ulNIK0jLZNYzXiw8d1LekMwjDRN3JPC5U/s320/dress+truck.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mobile clothing store making its neighborhood rounds</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;">If someone speaks English -- even just a few words -- they tend to stop me and ask me where I'm from (often they think I'm Swedish) or some other question that invites conversation. Kurds like Americans and they invariably try to relate in some way -- that they have relatives somewhere (outside of Iraq) or quite often that it is their dream to go to America, most often to study. If, however, I encounter an older and more traditional man on the street, he probably won't even look at me -- it's as if I'm invisible. Mind you, this is not always the case; every day on my way home from work I pass a group of gentlemen of many ages, but mainly elderly, who are playing dominoes -- a very popular game here. They always smile and wave as do I.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">As I was walking home this evening, a man in an SUV with his wife and young son stopped and he asked me where I was from and what I was doing here. When I explained to him that I was here working with Iraqi lawyers in human rights advocacy, he asked if we could perhaps help his wife's stepfather. He and his wife left to live in England for a while. When they returned, she found that her stepfather who, in his words, "was not quite right in the head," had been removed from his home by relatives who then sold his house. I explained that this is exactly the work we do -- helping people in vulnerable situations access justice -- and gave him our phone number.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Later this week we will begin our mobile outreach visits, taking the "help desk" to places where we can provide our services outside of our office: women's shelters, detention centers, clinics for the disabled etc. -- places where vulnerable people or people in vulnerable situations can use our help -- both in Suly and the various districts in the Suly governate. This way we can reach greater numbers of those who heretofore have found (or thought) that justice was inaccessible to them and begin to change that -- be visible to help the invisible.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSwOl-p50WBw8NxDaE0uDNRk6oQg5TduTTtHOmj361WzH86NsMfhMS_lJB21jgKzfA5U9mhsw4Pvmv_cmiRaRiARW2DFeNR_Fw-3asGKRH267lyOdyxdsQdn_RR0MJz8J07LUs_l_FHDJ/s1600/Shanty+town.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSwOl-p50WBw8NxDaE0uDNRk6oQg5TduTTtHOmj361WzH86NsMfhMS_lJB21jgKzfA5U9mhsw4Pvmv_cmiRaRiARW2DFeNR_Fw-3asGKRH267lyOdyxdsQdn_RR0MJz8J07LUs_l_FHDJ/s320/Shanty+town.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the less prosperous housing areas in Suly</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div>Lynn Hiestandhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17732292698258129928noreply@blogger.com0